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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Oskaloosa Iowa
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    270

    Table Saw Upgrade Advise

    Asking for advise/suggestions/thoughts about upgrading my table saw

    I have had my Powermatic Artisin contractors table saw for 30 yrs. It's been a good saw for the most part
    but I am wanting to upgrade to something better.

    I have my small shop in my basement. It's just a hobby for me. I do have dust collection system set up for my machines.
    There is 220v but its for my dust collector.
    So looking for a 110v ready saw
    I don't need a 600 lb , $3000.00 table saw. And Its going to be struggle getting it down the basement anyway.

    Here is what I am thinking about doing and just thought I would ask your thoughts.

    Selling my Powermatic
    have two guys interested
    (its listed in the classifieds here)

    Then buying a Grizzly GO771Z
    from all the reading I have done about it sounds like a pretty good Hybrid table saw
    It fits in my budget, size restrictions , and its 110v ready.

    Thanks for your input

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    N CA
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    Can't offer advice on your saw choice and don't mean to muddy the waters but, here goes Would it make sense to look at converting your DC to 110 and take the 220 for the saw? I have a Grizzly DC and it came 110v. I converted it to 220.

  3. #3
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    Jan 2007
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    Oskaloosa Iowa
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    Guess I could do that for my dust collector.
    Then I would be looking at a 220 v hybrid saw for another 100+ dollars.
    Then what saw would be worthwhile?

  4. #4
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    Dec 2005
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    West Lafayette, IN
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    Going from the PM Artisan saw to a hybrid isnt going to be a huge upgrade I don’t think. Moving a Unisaw or PM66 or G1023 down stairs isn’t hard with 2 average strength guys and a hand truck. Take the top off.

    So I’d suggest getting a true cabinet saw and figuring out the 220V. Add a circuit, if you use the DC with the TS.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Going from the PM Artisan saw to a hybrid isnt going to be a huge upgrade I don’t think. Moving a Unisaw or PM66 or G1023 down stairs isn’t hard with 2 average strength guys and a hand truck. Take the top off.

    So I’d suggest getting a true cabinet saw and figuring out the 220V. Add a circuit, if you use the DC with the TS.
    This. Avoid the Grizzly. Find a Unisaw or PM66 in excellent condition and partially disassemble it to get it into the basement.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  6. #6
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    Dec 2005
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    West Lafayette, IN
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    Not a hybrid saw. A 3hp cabinet saw if you’re buying new, or an older 1.5hp+ saw like an older Uni or PM66.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Oskaloosa Iowa
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    270
    Well
    I just sold my Powermatic table saw. I had it for thirty years and sold it for $150 less than I bought it brand new for.

    So now I am table saw less. That's a strange felling

    So now I need to start looking. I'll have to get lucky to find a PM66 or Unisaw at a good price.
    I think I could handle a $1500.00 budget. So know I am leaning toward a true cabinet saw I guess.

    I have read quite a few good reviews about the G1023 though. I thought Grizzly was liked around here ? Guess not.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
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    You say you have 240 volts. How many amps? No reason you can not run two machines from one supply. If you have 40 amps or more just install a sub panel in the shop. It is probably easier to pull a new bigger cable then to haul heavy saws and dust collectors up and down the stairs.
    If I was pulling a new cable I would size it for 50 amps or more. If you are a cheapskate like me watch c-list for used wire and panels.
    Bill D.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Burke View Post
    Well
    I just sold my Powermatic table saw. I had it for thirty years and sold it for $150 less than I bought it brand new for.

    So now I am table saw less. That's a strange felling

    So now I need to start looking. I'll have to get lucky to find a PM66 or Unisaw at a good price.
    I think I could handle a $1500.00 budget. So know I am leaning toward a true cabinet saw I guess.

    I have read quite a few good reviews about the G1023 though. I thought Grizzly was liked around here ? Guess not.
    You can find a person or group of people who dislike any brand. You have had good luck with your PM but, others have posted long-running nightmares with them. Same for Jet, Grizzly, Laguna, even Hammer and Mini Max. Setting that knee-jerk prejudice aside, there are quite a few decent offering in the hybrid and entry level cab-saw arena right now.

    If you can go to 240v the Grizzly 1023 has a long and loyal following. It is at the top of your budget but, is probably the best bang for the buck. The smaller footprint of a cab-saw is always nice for people moving from a rear motor contractor saw. Certainly a heavier-duty, 3HP saw will probably last you the rest of your life. I made do with a 1.75 HP hybrid for quite awhile and wold probably still be using it had not a windfall wandered by.

    Something like the Laguna Fusion, the Jet ProShop or the Griz 771 would save you up to $500 but, each makes concessions to come in at that price point. List out the top 3 - 5 things that you really want out of your new saw. This will help you narrow it down. For example, if a commercial quality T-fence is in your top 3, the Jet may win out over the Grizzly. If the mass of cast iron wings is high on your list, the Laguna will be wanting. These are just examples, not meant to be arguing points
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 12-02-2019 at 2:10 PM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Western PA
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    Cabinet saws are pretty easy to move if you break them down into pieces. Motor will weigh 50lbs+/-, main table will weight 50-75lbs+/-, extensions are 25lbs a piece, and then you need to move the cabinet and trunnions, which are another 75-100lbs. All told, they break down into manageable pieces that two moderately-able people can move with ease and safety. If you are fit, you can move it yourself without a problem. IF you buy used, breaking it down to move it will be something you want to do anyways to clean, lube, and replace parts. Motors, bearings, belts, and switches are all pretty standard and interchangeable. As far as other parts, i could have paid $200 for a new arbor for a 90s unisaw i worked on once with jacked up threads. Instead,i took it to a local machinist and he made the threads good as new for $20 while i stood there and watched. Cabinet saws are the easiest machine in the world to work on and buy. Stuff becomes tricky when you get into rehabbing a T-75 to pristine condition or basically anything Darcy works on. My days of buying a used cabinet saw are over, but i worked on 3-4 unisaws and two powermatic 72s and they were all cheap, easy, and great users.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Kane View Post
    Cabinet saws are pretty easy to move if you break them down into pieces.
    Sliders are easy to move if broken down. This is my Minimax SC2 Classic waiting to be moved downstairs to my basement. The vendor delivered the saw to my garage partially assembled because I told them it was going to be moved to the basement. The sliding table, outfeed table, side table, fence, and dust shroud were delivered separately. The main chassis was intact, but four relatively strong men could not maneuver it from the garage to the back porch. After separating the major components, two people moved each section down the stairs with ease. The concrete counterweight was the heaviest piece, followed by the table and motor assembly.





    This is a section of the stairs to the basement. The plywood shown is smaller than what I used, but the original piece covered each of the three supports and one of the treads. I used these for the few items that had to be chain hoisted down the stairs. The chain hoist was fitted on the stair treads going to the upper floor and it was easy to walk the heaviest items down a few steps, reposition the chain hoist, and repeat.





    Assembled, commissioned, and ready for work.



  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Oskaloosa Iowa
    Posts
    270
    Hello,
    Thought I would drop back in and update my table saw progress
    I decided to go with the Grizzly G0690
    Bought it on sale a week ago. Ordered it on Monday and received it on Wednesday. Shipping was great and no damage.
    Hauled it home and moved it downstairs on a utility cart. That worked great.
    Assembly went good , no missing parts and everything fit perfect.
    I could go on but no need to.
    I have been impressed so far and its a HUGE upgrade from my contractors saw.
    Thanks for all the help and suggestions
    grizzly.jpg

  13. #13
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    Mar 2003
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    Upland CA
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    5,572
    Very nice. That should last a while.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
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    6,538
    Lots of people like Grizzly, just not Andy ;-)

    He likes American old iron, as I do, but Grizzly makes good stuff too.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
    Posts
    1,239
    I've had my Grizzly G1023Z for 15+ years I think and it has been fantastic. I had the "upgrade" fence which I fought with for years, so don't go there. With a regular Biesmeyer style fence, it would have been wonderful. I went with a VSCT fence with rails I made about a year ago and couldn't be happier. With the top off the saw, you'll be able to get it into the basement without too much of a fight.

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