Deciding on Saw Mtd Router Table?

[Michael A. Tyree]

I'm "thinking out loud" here: I have a free standing Highland Hardware router table made from the kit they used to sell.
In considering a means to gain floor space and move it to my newly acquired PM M66 table saw which has fence extensions to mount it, I might gain floor space but would be forced to remove the router fence each time I sawed wide material.
Not sure I like that tradeoff?
I use the router table far less than a saw and often grab a small, one hand router for simple round off jobs.
The fence is homemade to the pattern Highland provided and fastens with threaded knobs. That router table sits on a "box" affair mtd to a heavy wood frame and wouldn't be hard to size over to the saw fence steel rails and fasten. The router table has 3/4 concrete blocks on the base to make it steady but less mobile than my table saw on mobile base.
Your thoughts are? Thanks in advance.

[Ted Calver]

The fence on my PM66 table saw serves both the saw and the router mounted on the wing. I don't see the need for a separate fence for the router.

[Mike Kees]

I have a Delta Contractors saw that has a router on the cast iron wing as well. I use the main fence with a plywood sub fence that lifts on and off easily. Agree with Ted that a second fence is not necessary.

[Brian Tymchak]

I have an Incra fence set up where the TS and router table share the fence system. I was just thinking today that it might be nice to have the router table set up to allow access to the saw at the same time. I had a task where it would have been advantageous to route a profile, rip the profile off, repeat many times.

[Michael A. Tyree]

Ted- How does my Biesemeyer saw fence with straight sides, allow for the swing of a larger 1/2" router bit? Of course it does not so the large center area of my router table is lost. My router fence also has a vacuum connection that came with the Highlands kit that is lost too-if, I use the saw fence...

[Steve Fish]

Easy build, just clamp it to your fence. I think I had something glued up in the pic but my fence has t-slots so I just use small knobs to hold it on.3949524D-BBA2-42CE-96CF-E49E4A723480.jpg

[Lisa Starr]

I also use my table saw fence for my router table. I just built a fence that drops over the beismeyer fence that provides for dust collection and bit clearance.

[Ted Calver]

Ted- How does my Biesemeyer saw fence with straight sides, allow for the swing of a larger 1/2" router bit? Of course it does not so the large center area of my router table is lost. My router fence also has a vacuum connection that came with the Highlands kit that is lost too-if, I use the saw fence...

Michael, I did what it sounds like Lisa (#7) and others did. I built a piggy back fence out of MDF that slips over my Biese and allows for dust collection...and the large center section of my 1/2" bits. Steve (#6) has a good solution too. They both use the saw fence to get the job done.

[andy bessette]

My router table was made from a re-purposed, cast iron table saw table, which serves as an extension on one of my Unisaws. The Unifence serves both.

[Rick Potter]

I went a different route. I just put a PC 690 directly in the table with no plate, and keep a round over bit in it for quickie roundovers using the bearing. I put it pretty far toward the end of the table, and seldom have to lower the bit for most table saw cutting.

Been that way for 20 years. I have a basic fence I can use with it, but seldom do. One hole in table for swivel, and clamp at the other end.

This is just an extra..in addition to a separate router table.

[Michael A. Tyree]

I have my M66 painted and in progress on the fence refinishing. Ordered a twist lock power outlet set to replace the push in one I've used hanging from the ceiling. Too much holiday socializing coming up to finish for now. Go the saw stops set, 90 deg/45 deg, etc..
Need to think hard on router table but i can see my old one easily sitting on the edge of my "new" saw.
1st of the year I'm gonna spend the $$$ so I can see yer pics!