Powermatic Model 66 Thoughts...

[Michael A. Tyree]

I'm considering a Powermatic Model 66, exceptionally clean/looks nearly new in fact, non-commercial use saw, less than 50 hours by original owner, has nice Bessemer fence, 2hp single phase Baldor motor. All in all it's about as good as it gets condition wise. For starters I'm very much aware of the brand as I'm retired from the KY tech school system and we had Powermatic in our state system shops, thus I used them daily there for many years. Per this saws serial # it was mfg in 1987, it's a gold saw. Comes with blades miter gauge etc. seems owner is leaving wood working.
The saw will be ~ a 1,000 mile RT to pick up-I have the truck/trailer and retired time doesn't count so much given the weather too.
I tried a Craigslist search to size up price points and mostly I find rougher saws or larger table saws, many with 3 phase bigger motors and having come from commercial use. Thus its hard to place a value on the saw given it's showy condition.
Ideas on the value, price point etc.?
Thanks in advance!

[Alex Zeller]

I often see them go for around $1000 or so if in good shape. Occasionally someone will try to sell one at about twice that price in really great shape but I usually don't look at the details so it's possible that they are including lots of extras like high end blades with it.
I recently picked up one from an auction that hadn't been treated well but over all just needed the arbor bearings replaced and some cleaning. If I had taken the time to paint it you would have to look close to see anything wrong with it. he arbor bearings on a saw that old with that few of hours could be hit or miss. The rubber dust shields on the bearings look like they just dry rotted. Changing bearings isn't that hard of a job and even buying top of the like Timken bearings it was only like $20 or so.

One thing to remember is the PM66 has a splitter vs a riving knife. Not a big deal but it's not as nice as a riving knife. The blade guard seams kind of cumbersome to me.

I guess it comes down to do you mind taking the trip. It's short enough you could do it in a day but you'll probably spend $200 (gas, food, etc.). If it's a nice trip and you don't mind it then you don't need to figure it into the price of the saw.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Wonderful saw, I have a soft spot for PM66s. I recently bought a big old Delta of similar condition and age with all the Biesmeyer goodies you could buy back then, at a closed bid school auction for $550. Nothing cuts better than these big old cabinet saws in the average hobby/light pro shop in my opinion. Lots of different ways to process wood, and after trying most of them I've decided that one of these will always have a spot in my shop. That all being said, if you feel like a road trip, do it! I'm sure you can find one cheaper if you spend time looking, but is that better?

I once took a 1000 mile trip to get a big old Oliver band saw with my dad. We had a weekend to do it, and even though I could have definitely saved $ getting it some other way, that time we had was priceless. I wish he was still around to make one more road trip. If woodworking is a hobby, enjoy the road trip, that's how memories get made!

Disclaimer, if it's for business I'd offer different advice on getting it delivered.

[Michael A. Tyree]

These thoughts are where my head is now. Like I said I've used these saws daily basis and also the person who maintained them. machinery was once my trade as a mill wright mechanic, 8,000 hr apprenticeship. The saw in question is about as clean as will be found and has no mechanical issues as I've covered that ground with the owner who seems very knowledgeable and not a re-seller, etc..
I will admit to not using blade guards other than the splitter as needed and it's my one man shop. Eyes and ears I protect at all times, fingers is push stick affair.
I've done too many drive & buys or fly & drive or rides or tow backs to even begin to remember. We drove up to Toronto 9/2018 where I bought a new scooter and saved over $2,000 minus an import fee of $140, nite on the town and almost exactly the same distance as this saw. mapquest says 516 miles x 2= ~ $125 gasoline plus snacks & a meal. 20 years into retirement I do not clock in!
My 8" Sprunger jointer came from near Lima OH as did my Sprunger lathe & about the same sort of long day trip. When I was rebuilding wrecked cars I went after the close ones and shipped the fer ones.
School auction tools are mostly gone now I'd think. Ebay was full of them for years as the USA abandoned "school shop". I would have bid on several of these same saws over the years but was illegal cause I worked there. One in my own building went for under a $100 to son of a co-worker which I considered but my kids were still kids at the time.
Thanks for sharing some thoughts...

[David Utterback]

Just sold mine with the same motor and manufacturing date as yours. I considered it a lifetime saw but got a great deal on a nearly new SawStop (which is still being assembled). My 66 deal included a Shark guard, nice Freud combination blade, phenolic extension table and excalibur fence.

Because the "young" man who bought it was just getting started on his home shop, I threw in several extra items like an old maple bench top that I had used when I first started. He had worked in a cabinet shop for years and really wanted a 66 like he had used there. I had it listed for about 3 or 4 weeks before it sold from the Craigslist posting. I think you should be able to still my post from the end of October.

Good luck with your venture.

[andy bessette]

OP--With a good fence, that saw you've described is worth ~$1500.

[Jared Sankovich]

Location is the big factor with value. Lots of pm66s locally for well under 1k. I bought my 1998 pm66 this spring with a 3 wheel feeder included for $600 and it had been listed for sale for a few days. Saw stops are causing a price drop as businesses dump older saws in favor of the saw stop due to insurance liability issues.

[Phillip Mitchell]

I drove 10 hrs (each way) for my 66 that is similar age to yours. 3 HP baldor, 52” fence, couple of Forrest blades, aftermarket miter gauge. Only ding against it is some surface rust inside the base, but the exterior and cast iron look great. I paid $900 for it and the seller (a member of this site who graciously held the saw for me for 2 weeks while I got ready to make the trip) threw in 80 bd ft of 4/4 cherry that he was trying to move along. My dad was my co-pilot for the trip and we had some quality time together which is hard to come by these days. $200-300 in miscellaneous travel expenses for a trip like that, but worth the time and experience. This was about 3 years ago. Just FYI for a comparison on the value.

[Michael A. Tyree]

I have finalized the deal for the Model 66 saw I mentioned early on. I'm driving Monday 12/9 to pick it up. It's a one owner saw and exceptional condition. Has 2hp/220v Baldor motor setup with a VG Biesemyer fence on it and guys says he's throwing in all his blades, miter gauge, etc..
The fence I see in pictures extends what looks to be about 10" beyond the right table edge but not all in the picture to see. I don't cut large sheets much so don't want to use valuable space for a really large table extension but will probably fill-in that space.
As it sets the saw has only the regular table edges with round corners as they come, one small ext. either side of each miter slot. Lots of web info on building table extensions using formica on plywood, etc..
I am open to advice on best approach to building that extension?
I have a router table on a stand that was put together from a Highland Woodworking kit ~ 20 or so years ago. It is very similar to the MLCS tables sold except my fence is home made. I need to measure my router table top and determine if it fits within the confines of the Model 66 fence using a wooden box support underneath. I could save some valuable shop space if I incorporate both tools.
Ideas???

[andy bessette]

OP--that saw looks like a great find.

[Michael A. Tyree]

W/O having seen it in person yet, I agree. The seller is a solo welding shop owner who is quitting wood working due to health issues at age 62. Interestingly, for me he's around the age of my first students when I began teaching in 1974 after going back to school myself at age 30 in 1973. Sad indeed as I'm 76 I have that perspective only age provides. My old grizzly saw is decent with an upgrade fence but I do wish the 66 had at least a 3hp motor.

I've been web searching table saw router tables and if I determine my old one isn't logical to move to the 66 saw I'm sort of fixated on either MLCS or Grizzly T1244 cast iron table. It has only one review on Amazon and it's from a user who says the holes are too big and that he had to shim it to make it become level due to a rough casting and poor design.
If it works it works to my mind but I am hoping to hear more here from those who know more? My old kit router table is composite and has had MUCH! lumber run on it. I did the T&G my 2x6 ceiling for a timber frame room addition in 2005 on it, a run of nearly a whole bundle of Western white Pine, so it's durable at least w/o being cast iron.

[Alex Zeller]

I would want to find out what size plate will fit in that extension. I personally lean towards the 9 1/4" x 11 3/4" size that Woddpekers/ Jess-Um/ Incra use. Even MLCS has started offering their plates in that size. If you decide you want to upgrade to a router lift you are pretty much stuck with whatever size the opening is with cast iron. Make sure that you are ok with what ever router lifts are offered in that size.

[Dave Sabo]

I always thought PM66 came with 3 h.p. as standard with an upgrade being 5 h.p.

A 2 h.p. version raises my eyebrows. Was this a replacement motor ?

[Andrew Seemann]

They came with 2 hp back in the day, kind of like how Unisaws could be had with 1 hp factory motors. Not sure when they dropped the 2hp, probably sometime in the 70s-80s.