[OP]
Moderator
If you were building a dining or kitchen table out of 8/4 lumber, how would you joint the edges so they mate well with the other boards? Let's also add in that each board weighs in at around 100 pounds each. NOW, how would you joint the boards?
Inquiring minds need to find out!
Thanks & Happy Wood Chips,
Dennis -
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Member
Track saw--maybe? But more likely answer is to pay someone else to do it as I'm not about wrestling 100lbs boards around.
Contributor
I use my smallest jointer-a 6". A strong helper, and I man handle it on the infeed end, with me handling the press to the table, and Big Mike doing most of the support.
The part that is probably different is where the weight starts going off the other end. The reason I use the small jointer is because it's light enough to be tipped by a heavy board. It's not possible to get a roller stand to Exactly the right height, so the roller stand is set about an inch low. As the balance point passes the tipping point, the feed is slowed up, and allowed to Ease over until the roller stand catches it. From there, the pass is finished after it passes the cutterhead.
I'm sure most would be surprised how well this works out. It's really not that hard, since that HTC mobile base moves the pivot point back under the machine, as you can see by the two wheels. The single wheel on the infeed side is off the floor in this picture. It works easier with that mobile base under it, than just sitting on the machine base.
Not saying to try this at home, but it works for me.
edited to add: I chuckle when I see people talking about the length of jointer beds limiting the length of boards that can be jointed. I started with a little 3' long 6" Delta four and a half decades ago.
Last edited by Tom M King; 11-27-2019 at 7:44 PM.
Contributor
Dam! I knew I should have opted for the Big Mike accessory when I bought my little Cutech jointer. (which, btw, I love. For me it's great)Originally Posted by Tom M King
Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.
Guest
Straight line rip saw.
Guest
Contributor
I have two 55" tracks and one 42" track for my Festool and two 55" tracks for my Makita.
I'd use the track saw - either one - probably the Festool since it's just a tiny bit more accurate.
13' would require "leap frogging" one track.......which would turn it into a project of sorts, rather than a straight up no brainer.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon
Contributor
My choice, too. Follow up with a jointer plane if needed.
Member
I want a set of those now..
Before i upgraded jointers track saw kerfing was my method for really long boards
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Last edited by Jared Sankovich; 12-01-2019 at 5:53 PM.
Contributor
Amen brother!
JR
Contributor
I don't see what the fuss is all about.
If you want to play with big sticks maybe its time to put on your long trousers and get yourself a grown-ups jointer.
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Member
Seems like the way to go. I was offered a ekstrom carlson slr with a newer chain today for less than a festool track saw.
Guest
That's a no brainer if you have the room and power for it.
I would always glue right off the 404 mattison or the Ekstrom I had before that.
Member
There is a device called JOINTABILITY. It's not big enough for your project, but if you read up on it, you will see how to use a router and straightedge to joint two boards at once so that they mate together.
Moderator
Whenever I need to process a board over my jointer that is respectively longer than can normally be done, I setup auxiliary supports on both infeed and outfeed side that are very carefully setup to be exactly at table height. I can then concentrate on keeping the board on the table before and after the cutter head as best as possible. In your case with 13' stock, I'd have human helpers, too, to make sure things don't go amiss. Unfortunately, 13' exceeds even the largest sliders that would typically be found in big shops, but if it didn't, I'd flatten on the jointer, thickness close to final and then have them straight-lined on the slider to avoid edge jointing those long boards. You may very well want to try and subcontract this long stock, but that will also eat into your cost. If you're working this job on time and materials, go for it. If you quoted a fixed price...decision time.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
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