Delta 17-925 drill press problem

[Rick Potter]

I have a Delta 17-925 variable speed (Reeves type). I believe it is a Type 1 because it does not list type anywhere. I posted on this several years ago, but still have problems. It's maybe 15 years old.

It is smooth going through the speed range until it gets above 2000 RPM, when it starts to shudder. At about 2500 or so, the belt gets stuck and stops suddenly. I then have to get out a strap wrench, wrap it around the chuck and turn it by hand back and forth until the belt pops free.

Watching it run with the top open, it is easy to see the belt is nice and tight until it reaches that speed, at which time the belt starts wiggling back and forth, vibrating, and eventually the front pulley locks it up and the machine stops. It is always the front pulley that grabs the belt, and up until that time both pulleys seem to be fine.

I can see the rear pulley open and close, but cannot tell if the front one moves. I have lubed them.

I see a jam nut on top of the front pulley, which has about one thread showing above it. If I try to tighten it, would that help? It looks to me like the front pulley is too wide open, allowing the belt to bottom out?

This model has a two speed lever. Could this have anything to do with the problem. I have never taken the time to figure out how that part works.

I have already checked out the Parts.com pics.

Ideas?

[Rick Potter]

In reply to my own question, I just found a YouTube vid by Joe Malovich showing how a variable speed pulley system works. I did not know the front pulley was opened manually by the speed lever without a spring.

This makes me think perhaps I did not lube EVERYTHING. I will be taking all the sheet metal to get a better view of what is going on. Maybe I can then figure it out. I am wondering if the bottom of the front pulley is getting stuck half way through its travel. Don't know why that would make the belt wobble though.

Still open to comments though.

[Eric Danstrom]

Is the belt fresh or wood it make sense to replace it?

[Rick Potter]

The belt is original, but is of a toothed design, and flexes easily. It also has no frayed edges.

No expert, but looks ok to me.

[Sal Ingrassia]

Bringing this thread back to life - Rick were you ever able to sort out your belt binding issue?

I'm looking at purchasing one of these units on CL and wondering if I should still be interested or not. The guy wants $500 for it, which feels high but it looks like it's in stellar condition. Willing to pay up a bit for a tool that will last but if this is a real issue with these models might it be worth looking elsewhere?

At any rate, looking forward to hearing if this was resolved or not.

[Charles Lent]

These drives are hard on belts. As the belts wear they become narrower. I don't own that model, but do own a bench top model with the Reeves variable speed drive and it has eaten several belts in it's lifetime. They become narrower as they wear, so sit deeper in the Reeves pulleys. I never had one bind up like the OP did, but suspect that a worn belt is his problem.

Charley

[Rick Potter]

WOW, talk about serendipity!

Just last night, honest, I got it working properly for the first time in a couple of years. It was working properly until I tried to run it near top speed, when the belt would lock up on one of the pulleys (front) and stop the motor. Then I had to lock a large bolt in the chuck, and go back and forth a little at a time until the belt came loose. It never broke.

Over the last two years, I have been occasionally dripping oil on the shafts, hoping to loosen them and running the machine speed up and down as much as it would go without locking up. That means up to about 3/4 speed.

Last night, I saw my liquid wrench on the bench, and decided to try that instead of light oil. Same routine...up and down several times. Story short....it worked. The machine now goes full range up and down, high or low range. The original belt is on it, and it is not frayed.. looks good.

My diagnosis?

There has never been any corrosion evident, no misuse, I bought it new from a dealer off the floor. I did not know there was supposed to be a top cover over the belt area that was missing when I got it new. The dealer probably forgot to put it on. It is now at least ten years old, maybe 15. I suspect dust, dirt, etc. collected on the shafts, along with some possible minor corrosion. Add that to the probability that I never even looked inside the top (need a ladder) to check it as long as it worked properly, and I come to the conclusion that it was owner responsibility for proper maintenance that caused the sheaves to stick on the shafts.

I am going take this as a win. I am also making a top cover for it.

PS: I do have the owners manual for it, but it does not address this.

EDIT: Correction, I just checked and I bought it in 2000 ($820 at a show)... it's 22 years old. Time flies.

[Bill Dufour]

A big long allen wrench is a good tool for stuff like this.
Bill D

[Rick Potter]

Good idea bill, but I don't have one. The strap wrench worked ok unit the strap broke, and I went to the bolt and wrench.

[Bill Dufour]

Reaves drives are known to get louder and rattle as the sleeve wears. The sleeve can be replaced but it is a machine shop job. They get glued in place and bored for size. Or maybe the pulley gets bored then the sleeve is glued in place.
Bill D