Just curious...#62 shaving evaluation

[Phil Mueller]

Been edge jointing a piece of cherry. Used a long wooden jointer to start, and then moved to my #62 to take the final fine shavings. Shavings are very fine, but a bit crinkly/wavy. Surface is good, so no big deal, but just wondering if this crinkly shaving is “correct” or if there may be some set up I’m missing. Iron is sharp, has a ~50 degree bevel and the mouth is about as closed as I dare.

Like I said, not freaked out about this, just wondering for my own learning.

Thanks.

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[William Fretwell]

Thick shavings stay relatively straight, fine shavings may curl beautifully when surface planing or they do what they want. Your steep angle on the blade is putting pressure on the shaving to behave in that fashion.
If what is left behind is good then you are happy. Is that really cherry in the picture? It looks more like a softwood with very spaced growth rings.

[Jim Koepke]

With a 50º bevel on the iron and 12º bedding you have an effective cutting angle of 62º. That would cause you to crinkle too if it was planing on you.

jtk

[Phil Mueller]

William, it is cherry, but it does have a fair amount of sap wood...might be what you’re seeing. Appreciate the input.
Jim, LOL.

[Stewie Simpson]

Phil; you might want to consider the possibility that the mouth opening on your #62 has been set a tad too close and is restricted the free flow of shavings through the planes throat.

[Rob Luter]

I've had similar results with my old LV Low Angle Jack when using the 50º iron for an included cutting angle of 62º. I just readjusted for a lighter cut and all was well. The important part was that the surface finish of the workpiece was like glass. The highest angle I've gone on my LN62 is 57º (45 + 12) and I get good results. I think Stewie may have a point regarding the mouth opening, especially relative to the thickness of cut.

[Jim Matthews]

Can the brass cap be "feathered" a little - or set further back from the cutting edge?

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks all for the input. I had a few minutes this morning and opened up the mouth and took a few swipes. A bit better, perhaps.

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In the end, the surface is great, so no real worries. I’ll play some more later...need to touch up the iron a bit as well.

Jim, on a #62 the brass cap is set way back from the cutting edge. On BD planes, yes, I would suspect something with the chip breaker...but really nothing to adjust on these low angle BU planes in regards to the cap (AFAIK).

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[Eric Danstrom]

Have you tried a lower beveled blade angle? It seems the recommendation is 33*~38* range for a straight grained American hardwood (to perfectly replicate a Stanley #5). The 50* bevel blade is recommended for harder wood with twisted, interlocked grains.

I have the same plane with a few extra blades and have found the advise to be well founded. If 50* isn't needed there's no reason for the extra work involved pushing a 50* blade vs 38*.

[Jim Koepke]

Is the face the plane is resting on in the images the face being planed?

It seems the shaving is a bit narrow if this is the case.

jtk

[Phil Mueller]

Jim, no, it’s resting on my bench. The piece being planed is roughly a 7/8” edge. Eric, I may have a second iron to try...need to look around and, if so, give that a try.