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Thread: controlling 230v magnetic switch from other locations

  1. #16
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    Manual starters have come and gone. Magnetic starters have been the standard for 70+ years. Start/stop buttons are run from 3 wires, one hot the passes through the NC (stop button) and one on the NO (start button) hot is tied from stop to start buttons.

    You can add as many start stop stations as you want by simple running them all in a parallel arrangement.

    It's really not difficult, complicated or horribly expensive.

  2. #17
    For my Oneida, I just ordered 4 more remotes. They had some deal at the time where you bought one for full price, then after that they were $10 a piece. I have them screwed to various convenient places in the shop so they can't get lost. I had planned to do a standard 24V control system to a magnetic switch (like what Darcy references above), but this seemed a whole lot faster and easier, and probably cheaper. So far I haven't had to replace any batteries in the last 12 years.

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    Manual starters have come and gone. Magnetic starters have been the standard for 70+ years. Start/stop buttons are run from 3 wires, one hot the passes through the NC (stop button) and one on the NO (start button) hot is tied from stop to start buttons.

    You can add as many start stop stations as you want by simple running them all in a parallel arrangement.

    It's really not difficult, complicated or horribly expensive.
    Darcy, forgive my ignorance here, but is that just a start circuit that triggers it on (as I suspect)? It's not the whole current for the DC going through the parallel start switches is it?

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff C Johnson View Post
    Darcy, forgive my ignorance here, but is that just a start circuit that triggers it on (as I suspect)? It's not the whole current for the DC going through the parallel start switches is it?
    I'm not Darcy. Surprise! You are correct; the whole motor current does NOT pass thru the start switches.

    Any mag starter/contactor is driven by its coil, and that coil's current draw depends on its rated voltage, but it will generally be 1A or less (at least for typical motors in a small shop environment). All the 'grunt' amperage passes thru the load switching contacts inside the starter.

    This ~1A coil load (at specified voltage) is all your control circuit devices need to be able to switch.

    So, you could control a 2000Hp DC from your existing '12V' system - if I'm correct in how it's setup now..? I'll not speculate on whether your utility provider will sanction this.
    Molann an obair an saor.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff C Johnson View Post
    Darcy, forgive my ignorance here, but is that just a start circuit that triggers it on (as I suspect)? It's not the whole current for the DC going through the parallel start switches is it?
    Correct, it is the control circuit that energizes the coil in the starter.

    You can technically do it with any voltage, but most modernish machines will have a control transformer to reduce line in power to something like 120v, or now most common 24v.

    The advantage to that is you can basically use tiny wires to supply all your start stop stations.

    I have no issues with 240v at a pushbutton, but avoid 480 at all costs.

    I add control transformers to most large machines I work on, all 480v stuff for sure.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff C Johnson View Post
    Darcy, forgive my ignorance here, but is that just a start circuit that triggers it on (as I suspect)? It's not the whole current for the DC going through the parallel start switches is it?

    With a magnetic starter or contactor, the control stations are controlling the coil at whatever control voltage, 24,120, 240,...., it is not handling the entire load, only the coil, that is the reason for mag starters.

  7. #22
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    Call me ignorant, but I have similar system where I used 12v to turn on 220 volt motor. Just change out from 110v to 220 volt relay. But I do like the idea of screwing down multiple remotes.
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  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff C Johnson View Post
    Yes, this is a good solution for many, though the 220 machines (as I understand it) don't work as well as you need the sensor on only one leg.
    Please don't tell this to my 220 machines as they have been using this system since 2002, and working flawlessly.

  9. #24
    You should be able to wire in an infinite number of start switches. You could add multiple stop switches too, but it's a bit more difficult.
    The start switch is a simple momentary switch. When pressed it closes the contactor and starts the motor.
    The contractor magnetically latches, when you release the start switch it returns to the normal open position.
    So any momentary switch with the proper specs, wired in parallel, would duplicate the effect.

    The stop switch breaks the contactor current momentarily and unlatched the contactor.

  10. #25
    The normally opened momentary start switches are all wired in parallel and the normally closed momentary stop switches are wired in series.

  11. #26
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    I wired a Lutron wirelessly controlled switch to switch my relay on for my CV cyclone. I hunted eBay and bought 8 of the two button remotes for like $9-$10 each and then double stick tabled them to all my tools I use the dust collector on. I’ll have to look up exactly what out model # switch i bought but the remotes were these models Home Depot lists on their site. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-2...-L01/300981102

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