Jointer testing and set-up: What tools / gauges do I need?

[Allan Speers]

I'll soon be buying a used 8" jointer, and I'm trying to determine what tools I'll need for a full check, & later setup. This would include testing flatness, twists, etc. The tables, the fence, and whatever else.

I know the basic concepts, but I can't figure out which exact items are best, to get good accuracy without wasting money on uber-machinist type stuff. Can anyone simply post a list, of what they would recommend I buy?
(And maybe even some ulrs for recommended instructional videos?)


thanks a ton.

[Paul F Franklin]

The woodcraft 38" straightedge is decent for the money; no starret, but mine is flat within a thou or less over the length. An even longer straightedge would be helpful but good ones get pricey fast. The Oneway gauge will let you check the fence pretty well (just using the precision ground right angle sides) and runnout of the head with the indicator. You won't need it to set the knives if you go shelix, but it would still be useful for setting the outfeed table height. Of course you'll need feeler gauges, especially the thinner ones.

[David Kumm]

A good extruded 6' level, feeler gauges, and a Oneway base with dial indicator. Dave

[Doug Dawson]

A good extruded 6' level, feeler gauges, and a Oneway base with dial indicator. Dave

Longer levels tend to sag, which could mask the sagging of the tables. Better to get a shorter (4 foot?) straightedge, even a Borg will do (test the straightedges against each other by flipping them back and forth and choose one that causes the least error, etc.) Test each table separately, and then try to make the tables _even_ (zero cut depth) and measure across them. That should give you a general idea of whether you have something usable.

FWIW, a parallelogram jointer's superiority is for when you want to _correct_ an out-of-line condition. Shimming large dovetail jointers is an experience nobody would relish.

[Mel Fulks]

I like the 4 foot Harbor Freight aluminum rules. Just pick up two of them ,in store , and test...in store. Surprisingly accurate.

[Bill Dufour]

I like the 4 foot Harbor Freight aluminum rules. Just pick up two of them ,in store , and test...in store. Surprisingly accurate.

You need to test three at a time all against each other.

[Allan Speers]

Thanks, guys.

So no winding sticks or similar?

[Doug Dawson]

Thanks, guys.

So no winding sticks or similar?

Winding sticks are for the flea. But that flea has littler fleas upon him. And so on ad infinitum.






(IOW, for a reference stock processing tool, no.)

[Allan Speers]

Huh?


How do you check for twist?

[Doug Dawson]

Huh?


How do you check for twist?

Diagonal check. Sorry if you missed the point that this is an iterative process of stock prep, where the tool you start with defines what you are ultimately able to achieve re "straightness" or whatever.

[Allan Speers]

I don't even know what "iterative" means. Lol....


BTW, is the this Oneway guage I want?

https://www.amazon.com/Oneway-2289-M.../dp/B0002SA98I

Any other accessories I should get? (I wouldn't mind being able to better tweak the rest of my shop, as well.)

[David Kumm]

Have several long levels and measure them against a Pinske edge. None sag. An 8" jointer has a relatively short bed so the tables are pretty easy to make parallel. Dave

[Doug Dawson]

Have several long levels and measure them against a Pinske edge. None sag. An 8" jointer has a relatively short bed so the tables are pretty easy to make parallel. Dave

Well, great. I don't have any "Pinske edges", I only work with Starrett (NIST traceable) as an absolute reference, and as a material, longer (typically aluminum) levels do indeed sag end-to-end, placed on edge. Not the greatest reference. There are cheaper ways of checking a jointer, as I pointed out. The typical 8" jointer will be 7' long, so...

[Paul F Franklin]

BTW, is the this Oneway guage I want?

https://www.amazon.com/Oneway-2289-M.../dp/B0002SA98I

That's the one I have. Works great for setting jointer knives and outfeed table height, but I find I reach for it anytime I want to square a fence to a table, or check bandsaw table to blade, etc. It's wide enough and heavy enough that it's easier to use for those checks than an engineer's square, for example.

[Allan Speers]

That's the one I have. Works great for setting jointer knives and outfeed table height, but I find I reach for it anytime I want to square a fence to a table, or check bandsaw table to blade, etc. It's wide enough and heavy enough that it's easier to use for those checks than an engineer's square, for example.

Thanks, Paul.

Can you also use it to set up a planer?

- Or would this one be more versatile?

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-W12...ED6CDXAR7HNF00