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Thread: Adding Remote Switch for Lathe? Jet 1442

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
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    Virginia
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    Adding Remote Switch for Lathe? Jet 1442

    Hi everyone,

    I'd like to add a second, remote switch that is moveable (magnetic) to my Jet 1442 VS. I have searched quite a bit on the site and on the web in general. However, I can't seem to find any specifics on the wiring for adding one. I'd like it to work as a second switch that I can position towards the tailstock. I'm comfortable with wiring the switch side, but would like assistance with wiring it to the headstock / current switch. Does anyone have advice or a source of specific information?


    What do you like, dislike, or would change with your current remote switch if you have one?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    3,325
    I would add a contactor or VFD to control the motor. Then add as many stop start switches as you like. Many metal lathes, like my Harrioson m300, have control levers on the apron that mechanically moves the switch for forward off reverse. On mine it has a cam at the headstock end that open and close two microswitches that originally powered forward and reverse relay coils.
    Bil lD

  3. #3
    You just want the second switch to turn the lather on and off? It's pretty easy if you can accept a limitation, namely that if either switch is in the on position the lathe will be on and both switches need to be in off position for lathe to be off. If that's ok, then you need a double pole single throw switch rated for at least 15 amps, and you would wire it in parallel to the existing switch. I can mark up the schematic from the owners manual if that would be helpful. If you don't want the limitation above, it gets more complicated.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
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    3,325
    How many horsepower and what voltage/. If a 120 volt wall switch will do use two switches. Both have to be two way switches.
    Or the easy method is make a extension cord with a switch in the middle of the length. Plug the lathe into the extension cord and both switches have to be on for it to run. Turn either switch off and lathe tops.
    Now is the time to look for remote switches for holiday lights. They make them that use a metal ornament you touch to turn lights on and off. Add extra ornaments as needed. Or hook it to the lathe metal body and touch the lathe anywhere. No idea if the paint will make this a fail?
    i have a electric heater under my desk controlled by one of those step on tree switch cords. I rewired it so the light is on if the power is on.
    Bill D.

    https://www.target.com/p/philips-9-3...n/-/A-76155458
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 11-24-2019 at 6:36 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul F Franklin View Post
    You just want the second switch to turn the lather on and off? It's pretty easy if you can accept a limitation, namely that if either switch is in the on position the lathe will be on and both switches need to be in off position for lathe to be off. If that's ok, then you need a double pole single throw switch rated for at least 15 amps, and you would wire it in parallel to the existing switch. I can mark up the schematic from the owners manual if that would be helpful. If you don't want the limitation above, it gets more complicated.
    Thanks very much Paul, and that's where I'm getting a bit confused.

    Ideally, I'd like it wired such that if the remote switch is on, the main switch still functions as normal; flip it on and the lathe runs, flip it off and the lathe goes off.

    But on the flip side (pun intended) if the remote is off, the main switch is always off.

    So in a nutshell, both switches must be on for the lathe to run. And if either is off, the lathe is off.

    This way, in my mind, the remote can be used as an emergency switch if needed, and as an on / off switch if turning bowls from the tailstock side without having to constantly reach around.

    If there is something I'm not thinking of, either practically or from a safety standpoint, please let me know.

    Thanks again!

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Saah View Post
    Hi everyone,

    I'd like to add a second, remote switch that is moveable (magnetic) to my Jet 1442 VS. I have searched quite a bit on the site and on the web in general. However, I can't seem to find any specifics on the wiring for adding one. I'd like it to work as a second switch that I can position towards the tailstock. I'm comfortable with wiring the switch side, but would like assistance with wiring it to the headstock / current switch. Does anyone have advice or a source of specific information?


    What do you like, dislike, or would change with your current remote switch if you have one?
    You could just make a short extension cord with a switch in the cord.

  7. #7
    So in a nutshell, both switches must be on for the lathe to run. And if either is off, the lathe is off.
    Ok, that's easy too. You want the switches in series. There are two pairs of wires to the switch; each pair has a white wire and a black wire. One pair comes from the line cord, the other goes to the motor. Remove either pair from the switch and connect it to your new switch, white to one pole of the switch, black to the other. Now run a new pair of wires, one white, one black, from the other terminals on the new switch to where you removed the pair from the old switch. Now both switches need to be on for the motor to run; if either is off, the motor is off.

    [eta:] This assumes using a double pole single throw switch.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul F Franklin View Post
    Ok, that's easy too. You want the switches in series. There are two pairs of wires to the switch; each pair has a white wire and a black wire. One pair comes from the line cord, the other goes to the motor. Remove either pair from the switch and connect it to your new switch, white to one pole of the switch, black to the other. Now run a new pair of wires, one white, one black, from the other terminals on the new switch to where you removed the pair from the old switch. Now both switches need to be on for the motor to run; if either is off, the motor is off.

    [eta:] This assumes using a double pole single throw switch.
    Thank you very much Paul! Your specific answer was what I was looking for and now that you've explained it, it makes sense. Now to find the time!!!

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