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Thread: How to best make form this shape?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Question How to best make form this shape?

    I would like to make a keyboard body similar to the one shown here. I will CNC carve the recess on top, which should be done first since it needs to be at a right angle to the top surface. That leaves me with the long bevel on the bottom.
    Untitled.png
    How would you go about this? The three approaches I've come up with are bandsaw, flipped over and CNC cut, or mount on angled carrier and make multiple cuts through planer. I'm leaning toward using the planer, but advice, guidance, or other ideas much appreciated.
    Keychron.jpg

    Apparently I don't know how the forum works as my images are not showing. (EDIT: now I know why)
    Basically I want to make a 5x18 keyboard body that is 1/2" tall at the front and 1" tall at the back similar to https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1wIw3x...aq6yOOFXaq.jpg How do I best form the long bevel on the bottom.
    Last edited by Paul Harker; 11-22-2019 at 10:06 AM.

  2. #2
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    I've done it by tacking a strip on what will be the short edge and running it through the planer. Also by doing an angled cut on a bandsaw for smaller pieces.

  3. #3
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    Bandsaw followed by the jointer/hand plane will create your bevel in a minute. Determine the angle of your bevel and set your bandsaw table to that angle. You can do this easily with a bevel gauge and zero math. After you make the cut, follow it up with a light pass at the jointer or hit it with a handplane/sander.

  4. #4
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    I'd do both on the CNC...but you can certainly cut the taper with a thickness planer by tacking a strip of wood under one edge so you can shave off the material to create the full width bevel. (I've done long thresholds that way) If you choose to do that, leave the workpiece much longer than you need and then trim off the ends afterward before you complete the cutting by putting in the hand-holds by however method you intend to do that.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    Depends on the CNC he has. After using that shark for 5 minutes, id rather make the bevel with hand tools only. 1/2" stock removal would take 45 mins. If he has a powerful and stiff machine, then yeah, have the CNC do it.

  6. #6
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    Do you have to have a flat bottom? Instead, could you use a tray which is L-shaped in cross section? Start with a piece of lumber as thick as the front edge of your pic. Add a strip under the rear of the tray to produce the angle on the top.

  7. #7
    I would make a carrier for the planer and follow up with thickness sander using the same jig.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by roger wiegand View Post
    I've done it by tacking a strip on what will be the short edge and running it through the planer. Also by doing an angled cut on a bandsaw for smaller pieces.
    Instead of tacking use double sided tape.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    Instead of tacking use double sided tape.
    Actually what I've used was a couple dabs of hot hide glue. Easier to get off than the tape residue, at least with the tape I have. Lot's of things will work, including nothing. --I just made some tapered thresholds where I just propped the piece up on another board and ran it through the planer.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Harker View Post
    I would like to make a keyboard body similar to the one shown here. I will CNC carve the recess on top, which should be done first since it needs to be at a right angle to the top surface. That leaves me with the long bevel on the bottom.
    I handwired a Planck few days back. Made two cases. One with angled base and one flat.

    I used a router to cut the top recess and chisels to cut opening on long edge for USB.

    To make angled base I used a planer. After cutting the piece to width I added few layers of painters tape and then ran the piece through planer.

    Don't cut the piece to length before running it through planer. You need piece to be at least 12" long (and some more if you want to account for planer snipe).

    Case that I made was ~ 3/4" thick. This left the base thin. When I ran it through planer, it left the middle a wee higher (and base not flat). Few shaves from block plane fixed it.

    After trying the keyboard, I made a flat base case as well. I like the neutral position more. Next time I will make it negativily angled. Basically, try the angle before you cut it.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Michigan
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    Make it flat then raise the back by adding a couple of rubber feet, keeps it from moving around.

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