Cypress protection

[Sid Long]

Hi from Tennessee I’m new to this site and needing some info. I’m getting ready to build a patio cover and I’m using 8x8 cypress posts that will put in the ground then concrete poured around them. What can I put around these post to give me the max protection against rot and temimites.
Thanks

[Edward Dyas]

I think anything you would coat the post with would cause it to hold water make it rot faster. I believe I would purchase some insecticide made for termites and put it in a container where you could soak the ends of the post in for several days.

I believe if I wanted the cypress look I would use pressure treated pine to go into ground and laminate the cypress around the post above grade.

[Jim Becker]

I would do the same as Edward mentions or mount the cypress posts on for-purpose brackets on top of poured footers. The latter method isolates all the wood from the ground which lessens the risk of critter and moisture damage.

[Malcolm McLeod]

I used 10x10 cypress for a timber frame 'bent' on an exposed patio.

I would recommend a poured concrete pier (or slab), then set the post on top of the pier. If lift from wind loads is a concern, use a galvanized post base to hold the post down and keep it dry. In my case lift was not an issue, so I cast a 3/4"dia x 12"L pin into the slab, placed a washer over it as a spacer (to keep the foot of post dry), and counter drilled the post base to simply drop over the pin. Mine are passing thru 11yrs with no sign of rot.

[Mel Fulks]

I would use the oil based copper naphthalate ,from bottom to just a couple inches above ground line. Read the label
before you order,has to be used carefully. I think you have to buy a whole gallon.

[Sid Long]

The reason behind this is I’ve got 3 8x8x12 post that I’m going to notch and sit a 4x12x 26 ft beam on the post. With them in the ground with concrete the post can’t move as I would think if it was sitting on a footing. Thanks for the help.

[Andrew Seemann]

With all the deck post to concrete footer hardware available now, there really aren't many reasons left to put a post in the ground and pour concrete around it for that sort of thing. Keeping the wood out of the ground is the best rot resistance treatment, and you can use a shorter post.

[Darcy Warner]

I have put a post in a hole for years, way better ways to do it that will keep posts nicer longer. Simpson makes a bunch of nice brackets along with Ozco an others.

[Doug Dawson]

I would do the same as Edward mentions or mount the cypress posts on for-purpose brackets on top of poured footers. The latter method isolates all the wood from the ground which lessens the risk of critter and moisture damage.

And also makes them easier to replace when they do eventually rot.

[Jim Becker]

The reason behind this is I’ve got 3 8x8x12 post that I’m going to notch and sit a 4x12x 26 ft beam on the post. With them in the ground with concrete the post can’t move as I would think if it was sitting on a footing. Thanks for the help.

Don't discount the level of hardware available today to secure posts like this as others have mentioned. They can be as sturdy as you need them to be...it's a matter of choosing the right system for the job and a good supplier can help you with that.

[Tom M King]

I have gate posts set in concrete in a number of spots for our horse pastures. All the old type treated Pine posts are still fine, after 30 some years. I set some of the new (not really that new any more) treated Pine gate posts the same way, and they lasted four years. I've seen old Heart Cypress last for 200 years sitting on sandy ground, but none on any other type of ground that doesn't drain. I would have no expectation of Cypress lasting long in encased concrete in the ground.

[Alan Lightstone]

Would pressure treated wood fare better in concrete? Or is it still necessary to place them on footer hardware?

[Andrew Seemann]

Would pressure treated wood fare better in concrete? Or is it still necessary to place them on footer hardware?

It definitely will fare better in footer hardware and not in concrete or the ground. Whether it will last long enough for the application is a different question. I recently sunk a couple of 4x4s directly in the ground for a particular application, but they were ground contact rated and will only need to last about 10 years. They will also be easy to swap out if necessary. I didn't put them on concrete footers like I had intended, because I was racing winter, and losing. Given an extra week, I definitely would have put them on footers.

[Jim Andrew]

There is a new pole building being put in near here with steel plates bolted on each side of the poles, and fastened down with anchor bolts. They bought their building material from Menards. The steel hardware looks very strong.