Removing Sapwood

[Nathan Jordan]

I've got a few slabs that came from trees where the sapwood has started to go soft. What is the best way to remove soft punky sapwood?

[Jim Becker]

It depends upon the end result you desire.

By example, for a recent "natural edge" table project I was dealing with a similar problem...this was very old cherry that wasn't originally stored properly and had very punky sapwood edges. I didn't want to straight-line rip them off because that would destroy the look, so I carefully removed the bad edges using a jigsaw with the blade tilted at a similar angle to the original natural edge and following a flowing line parallel to the original natural edge. From there, I finished up the now-faux natural edge by sanding (Festool Rotex in rotary mode with 80 grit abrasive in my case) by sculpting it. My original intent was to try and bleach the edges a bit to simulate the sapwood, but I didn't end up executing that step.

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[Nathan Jordan]

Yea, I'm thinking I'd like to mimic the shape of the natural edge rather than rip a straight edge. I know its a lot more work, and something like black walnut that has high contrast between sapwood and heartwood its probably impossible to recreate if you lose all of the light colored wood. So that's kind of what I thought it would be, cut the general shape and then sand the bejesus out of it, lol. I don't have a jigsaw (yet) so I'm thinking start with maybe a grinder or wire wheel. I've seen people say never do that but if I'm only removing the ultra soft stuff maybe it'll work before course sanding?

[Andrew Seemann]

I'd probably pick a draw knife or bandsaw over a grinder or wire wheel. Keep in mind if it is punky it might also be moldy and/or mildewy, and you really don't want to breathe that dust in or cover your shop with it. Spalted maple always has those warnings about breathing in the dust that comes off of it. I don't even work with it for that reason, way too hard on the allergies.

[Bradley Gray]

If you are going for a natural edge a drawknife will get you really close. If the sapwood is punky just follow the inside edge of it. You will be following the grain and leaving a plane -like surface.

I would follow with a router w/ 1/8-1/4" round-over bit to ease the sharp corners and a finish sander.

[Mike Henderson]

I agree with the suggestions for a drawknife, as long as you're comfortable using it. The angle of the edge is going to change and a drawknife allows you to follow the edge of the sound wood easier than a power tool.

Mike

[Nathan Jordan]

I like the drawknife idea, but I've never used one. I wonder if I could take a hatchet to it and go for the hand hewn look, I guess it all depends on the end use.

[Andrew Seemann]

You probably could use a hatchet if you can get it sharp enough. Don't use it to the point of arm fatigue though; they get really dangerous at that point.

Draw knives aren't that difficult to use, although you do need to be careful since you are pulling it towards yourself. That and the edge is pretty big and easy to accidentally knick yourself on when it is on the bench. Once people get the hang of them, they tend to become a favorite tool (it is one of my favorites). Ask about them in the Neander forum; you'll probably get pages of response on their use.

[Tom Bender]

Timber framing tools are good if you have any. A slick may work for you or a broad axe or an adz.