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Thread: Need help with angle tenon jig cut

  1. #1

    Need help with angle tenon jig cut

    I tried and tried to avoid asking for help but I am just at wits end with this. I am trying to make a flag display case. I’m cutting the angles in a tenon jig on the table saw. The saw is new to me in the last month so I’ve been spending time setting it up. Ive tuned it up and checked it multiple times now and it is dialed in. These are the results so far. The cut is skewed somehow. You can see in the pictures below how the final cut no square across the board. I marked a pencil line in the one photo that is square so you can see. And you can see in the third picture how uneven the cut is off the table.

    What am am I doing wrong? The jig is PERFECTLY 90 degrees to the table in both directions. When I set up the saw I even adjusted blade to miter slot at 45 degrees and had to add a thin shim above the back two table bolts. I have tried this cut with different blades and get the same results. I’m so confused at this point. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Canada
    Posts
    2,236
    Your blade is not parallel to the fence (at least not in 45 degree) or your jig is not held tight against the fence all along.
    Adjust the tail end of the fence and check how it changes.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    2,474
    Will the saw rip 45s on straight stock.
    To me that would be my first guess.
    Other then that is has still be your set up or accurate milling of the piece your cutting. Impossible for anyone to know without standing there.

    GoodLuck
    Aj

  4. #4
    Thanks guys. Yes the fence is parallel to the blade and miter slot. Iíve gone over everything multiple times. The stock is milled up flat and square. Maybe Iíll try moving the fence tail inward and outward tomorrow to see if that moves me in the right direction.

    I donít have a good way to check the blade parallel to the miter slot at 45. So I just use a combination square and feeler gauges. Seems right on to me. I would like to use my dial indicator but donít have a jig knocked up yet to get the indicator at 45 as well.

  5. #5
    Am I missing something. What's the point of cutting a 45į angle with the board held vertically?

  6. #6
    Not sure how you adjusted your saw to get the blade parallel at 45 degrees here's an article on how to do it in post 109 of this thread

    https://forum.canadianwoodworking.co...d-unisaw/page3

  7. #7




  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    519
    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    Am I missing something. What's the point of cutting a 45į angle with the board held vertically?

    I had the same question. I don't get the 45 degrees.
    David

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKinney, TX
    Posts
    1,699
    Try using two clamps to hold the piece to the jig. Using just one can allow the workpiece to pivot slightly when the blade contacts it.
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  10. #10
    Iím actually cutting vertically at 67.5 degrees to make the corners for a flag display case. Iím checking my saw blade parallel to the miter slot at 45 degrees to accurately make this cut.

  11. #11
    Doug thanks for that article. That appears to be what my problem is.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Jenkins View Post
    Try using two clamps to hold the piece to the jig. Using just one can allow the workpiece to pivot slightly when the blade contacts it.
    I tried two as well and still get the same result. I had thought this could be the problem as well.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Shorewood, WI
    Posts
    759
    When you say the jig is perfectly square to the table on "both" directions, that could be a problem. It needs to be square in three directions to cut accurately: the surface the part is clamped to must be square to the table, the fence backing up the piece must be square to the table, and the clamping surface must be precisely parallel to the miter slot. If that surface were twisted out of parallel a tiny bit, you would get the observed cut.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Schwabacher View Post
    When you say the jig is perfectly square to the table on "both" directions, that could be a problem. It needs to be square in three directions to cut accurately: the surface the part is clamped to must be square to the table, the fence backing up the piece must be square to the table, and the clamping surface must be precisely parallel to the miter slot. If that surface were twisted out of parallel a tiny bit, you would get the observed cut.
    Good point Alan. The jig is absolutely square to the clamping surface and back fence to the table. The clamping surface being parallel to the miter slot would be the fence since this is riding on the fence. I have my fence set parallel to the miter slot. Wonder if maybe itís not holding that accuracy or flexing somehow? I have a grizzly 1023RL with the shop fox fence.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
    Posts
    335
    Do yourself a favor and consider replacing the fence in the near future. I fought with that fence on my Grizzly for years...I finally replaced it with a new front rail assembly that I made myself and a Very Super Cool Tools fence. I can't figure out why I fought the other for so-o-o-o-o long.

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