Kreg cabinet door hinge jig thoughts?

[Bruce Wrenn]

If you already have a set of Forstner bits, I think the 1-3/8" is the same as 35mm. I know one of them is, but should be pretty easy to check.

The trouble I found trying to use a 1 3/8" Forstener bit on 5/8" and 3/4" slab doors is center point can leave a dimple on face side doors Using proper inset from tables (Blum,) bore 35MM hole. Then using hinge and a square to get hinge square, then use vix bit to bore screw holes

[Doug Garson]

I think if you use a jig to locate the hole or clamp the door on a drill press table you could file back or completely remove the center point. It's only needed if you are using a center punch hole to locate the bit.

[John Gregory]

I own the jig and love it. I just did 38 doors with it, very repeatable results. One door was 72" x 21", NOT easy on a drill press. Repeat-ability is what we woodworkers strive for, correct? I have done dozens of doors without the jig. I would not do that again!

[Doug Garson]

I own the jig and love it. I just did 38 doors with it, very repeatable results. One door was 72" x 21", NOT easy on a drill press. Repeat-ability is what we woodworkers strive for, correct? I have done dozens of doors without the jig. I would not do that again!

Just curious, does the bit that comes with the jig have a center point like a typical Forstener bit?

[Gary Ragatz]

Just curious, does the bit that comes with the jig have a center point like a typical Forstener bit?

In the video at the site the OP posted a link to, at about the 0:40 mark, they show the bottom of the bit - seems to have no center point.

[John Gregory]

Just curious, does the bit that comes with the jig have a center point like a typical Forstener bit?

Yes it does.

[Doug Garson]

Yes it does.

If you look at the video attached to the OP's first post at about 40 sec as Gary pointed out it is clear the bit has no center point which makes sense since if the bit is guided by the jig there is no need for the center point and as someone else pointed out on thin doors the point can be a problem.
https://youtu.be/YbgkLFRAUxk?t=42

[johnny means]

I routinely drill for euro hinges with nothing but a pencil, combination square, tape measure, and the appropriate forstner bit chucked into a cordless drill. Don't overthink it.
Also, if the point on a forstner is a problem, you've already gone too deep.

[Dan Baginski]

I’ve yet to buy a kreg jig I didn’t like, or end up using on multiple projects. They’re cheap enough and very accurate in my experience. It’s a no brainer for me.

[Doug Garson]

if the point on a forstner is a problem, you've already gone too deep.

While this may be true with standard thickness doors, if, for example you were making doors from thinner stock perhaps to save weight if the door were for a camper or boat, then the point could restrict the thickness of stock you could use.

[andy bessette]

While this may be true with standard thickness doors, if, for example you were making doors from thinner stock perhaps to save weight if the door were for a camper or boat, then the point could restrict the thickness of stock you could use.

There is a minimum thickness for this type of hinge; the door has to be thick enough to hold the hinge mounting screws. Where you require lightweight doors, you build them up with hollow or lightweight cores and thin skins, providing solid framing or hard spots in the areas of hinges and latches.

[johnny means]

Your using the wrong hardware at this point.

[John Gregory]

If you look at the video attached to the OP's first post at about 40 sec as Gary pointed out it is clear the bit has no center point which makes sense since if the bit is guided by the jig there is no need for the center point and as someone else pointed out on thin doors the point can be a problem.
https://youtu.be/YbgkLFRAUxk?t=42

I bought the Kreg bit and mine has a point, needed or not.