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Thread: table saw rumbling

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Norristown, Pa
    Posts
    187
    Bob,
    If it not too late, I would try and loosen and move the collar before drilling the hole.

    Bob

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    521
    The collar is able to be loosened and moved... the issue is that this only gets me about 1 inch of movement relief on the shaft before it hits the back of the cabinet... and I need it to move closer to 4 inches in order for the front of the shaft to be free, and 6 inches for it to be free with enough room for the worm gear to be removed towards the front of the cabinet.

    The other option that I can think of is to gently sand the entire shaft to remove paint (etc.) in hopes that the worm gear and collar could both be slid off the shaft the other direction towards the back of the cabinet (i.e. pulling the shaft forward through the hole near where the hand wheel is attached).. I fear that this is a really long way to slide the worm gear and I'd be willing to bet it's going to be a very very tight fit the entire time. (whereas sliding the worm hear in the other direction is the direction is was originally assembled from... and bare, lightly oiled surface)
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Greater Manor Metroplex, TX
    Posts
    212
    Bob

    I can no offer no intelligent advice for you on this problem, but I have enjoyed the story so far.

    You have made me feel better about the shop cleaning project I started last month and I am now in week 6 of reorganization and dust collection upgrade.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    50,699
    I would hazard a guess that those components are installed prior to the trunnion being attached to the cabinet. That's why there is no clearance to remove the component because of the cabinet blocking the motion.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #50
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    1,220
    I think Jim is correct. There are only four bolts on the "corners'' holding the trunnion in place in the cabinet. I think your life would be far easier if you pulled it out of the cabinet first and then you will not have to drill a hole and it will be far easier to work on. I would also scratch the location of the trunnion corners on the cabinet with a screwdriver to make reassembly easier. Hope this all works out for you .

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    521
    So the entire "trunion assembly" (probably not the right term) comes out as one piece once those corner bolts are removed? I was concerned that I'd be left with many individual pieces, with my experience thus far being that they are very difficult to get back together again.

    Also, my guess is that this approach is probably easiest if I remove the motor first (else it will be pretty heavy to move all together) - I think that's just a bolt and a cotter pin holding that in place if memory serves.
    Last edited by Bob Riefer; 12-03-2019 at 2:41 PM.
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    50,699
    Yes, that's actually the key design that makes it a "cabinet saw"...the trunnion mounted to the cabinet rather than to the table.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    521
    Yes I get that. I’m just wondering if it all comes out as a single
    piece. There are multiple moving parts entailed
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    50,699
    AFAIK, the whole trunnion should lift out after you remove the bolts and remove any hand-wheels, etc., that penetrate through the cabinet. But I don't have a cabinet saw to physically look at to confirm.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    532
    I can't tell you how Grizzly does it with that saw but with the PM66 the assembly minus the shaft that tilts the arbor. Because PM66 has a splitter there's a shaft that supports the splitter that has to be removed first. I would guess it comes out pretty easy but you just need to look at parts that might prevent it from coming out. If it's similar to a Unisaw you should be able to find a video on that saw to help you.

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    3,349
    Better then scratching around the piece to be removed is a quick spraypaint job. May want to do a quick masking with tinfoil to control over spray. Makes getting everything back in place much easier.
    Bil lD

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    521
    OMG, if you want to marvel at someone's knowledge (while also cowering in bewilderment):

    http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/How...%20Unisaw.ashx
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  13. #58
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    521
    BIG WIN!!!

    My hack method worked.

    I sanded and polished the shaft until the stop collar moved freely. I cut a hole in back of the cabinet. A couple more steps. Worm gear removed without disassembling the entire saw.

    New gear should be here tomorrow.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  14. #59
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
    Posts
    521
    New worm gear arrived, and fits the existing shaft!

    Sadly, they (of course) did not send the needed set screw that goes with the gear, and it never even occurred to me to wonder about that... I assumed those two items traveled together as a set (I forgot that this is bizarro table saw land where everything is difficult).

    As noted in my other thread in this saga... I picked up my new saw yesterday.. so I'm momentarily shifting gears (pun intended) to get that setup and working, and then I'll return to this repair before selling the saw.
    - Bob R.
    Collegeville PA (30 minutes west of Philly)

  15. #60
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    50,699
    Fortunately, set screws are easily obtainable from TrueValue and other hardware retailers...you just need to determine the threading. Take the part with you so you can work that out in the store.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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