table saw rumbling

[Rick Potter]

Sorry about your problem. I just have to say that I am amazed that Grizzly would have a part for a saw that old.

Hope you get it back up and running soon.

[Bob Riefer]

Sorry about your problem. I just have to say that I am amazed that Grizzly would have a part for a saw that old.

Hope you get it back up and running soon.

From what I gather, certain parts on some of these saws have remained largely unchanged over the years, so luckily this was the case this time around.

The arbor assembly I purchased has minor nuances that are different than my original, but none of those affect the fit or functionality.

[Bob Riefer]

Sigh............. Still on this journey.

The replacement part arrived today, and I was so excited to get the saw tuned up and running again.

But, it turns out the teeth on the new arbor bracket assembly are thicker than the teeth on the original part. So, once the part is installed, and you turn the hand wheel to raise/lower the blade, the "worm" (screw thread looking part that rotates when you turn the hand wheel) gets stuck on the thicker teeth.

My first instinct is to clamp the old part to the new part, and use a fine file to remove some material from the teeth on the new part... stopping when it matches the original part's teeth.

My second thought is to buy a new "worm" part.

In any case, I have both these ideas in to Grizzly for their opinion, but figured I'd see what you all think.

[Alex Zeller]

I would buy the worm gear to make sure the two mesh together well. I wonder if they went with that design to avoid being sued by Powermatic or if they thought that having a bearing on either side of the pulley was needed? Hopefully it lasts a lifetime for you so you never have to go through this again.

[Jim Becker]

I think I'd opt for the new worm gear so they are a matched set from the get-go. Filing will give you the clearance, but is 1) a lot of work and 2) nearly impossible to get every tooth identical.

[Bob Riefer]

I agree... Ordered the worm gear - it's going to take over a week to get here, which will hopefully be the end of this situation for many years to come.

[Bob Riefer]

Does anyone know how to remove the worm gear from the hand wheel shaft for the blade height adjustment assembly?

I was able to remove the nut at the back end of this assembly, and the hand wheel from the front end... so I can move the shaft forward/backward by about 1 inch, which is not enough play to pull the part out of the saw.

There are set screws of some unknown type holding the worm gear to the shaft... My thought was to figure out how to remove these set screws, slide the worm gear towards the back of the shaft, thus allowing me to slide the shaft further forward >>> which would allow the back end of the shaft to come free >>> slide the whole shaft back now until it comes free.

Is that the process? Or do I need to disassemble the entire damn saw?

[Matt Day]

Pics of exactly what you’re talking about would help. There might be tapered pins or roll pins holding it on, which would need to be knocked out with a punch.

[Bob Coates]

From this picture, and what I conclude from parts diagram it looks like if your remove parts 23,24 and 69 -- assuming you have removed 10+ -- from parts manual, the shaft should slide out. 24 seems to have two sets screws. 23 has one. It is not clear the function of part 27 and if is blocking the removal of rod. Your good comments are blocking some of the parts so this may not be correct. I do not have or have ever seen this machine.
Bob

[Bob Riefer]

Here’s a pic without the comment box in the way

487D639B-EFAF-43B7-BE26-6470EF0CE5D9.jpg

[Mikail Khan]

The 1023 manual is online and it shows a set screw. Item 43.

Screenshot_20191201-113622_Drive.jpg

[Bob Riefer]

Yes, I see the set screw, took the picture above purposely showing that set screw, and have the manual just about memorized (I sleep with it under my pillow at this stage in the game). :-) My questions are...

Is loosening the worm gear set screw and attempting to remove the shaft without any additional disassembly of the tool the process to follow?

If yes, any recommendations on easiest removal method? The fit of all parts are very tight so sliding the worm gear very far down the shaft isn't a piece of cake (i.e. it will only want to move easily towards the hand wheel direction... which is blocked by the cabinet right now).. In other words, loosening a set screw doesn't suddenly allow parts to move freely in all directions.

Or must I disassemble nearby portions of the saw in order to remove the shaft?

[Bob Riefer]

This may sound "hack" way of doing this... but a thought (because I think that more disassembly than I'm willing to risk/entertain is probably going to be required to remove that shaft the "correct" way)..

If I cut a small hole in the back of the cabinet, directly behind the shaft, then I can loosen the stop collar and slide the entire shaft backwards (so it extends through the cut hole) far enough that I can remove the worm gear from the front of the shaft... all without ever entirely removing the shaft from the saw. Replace that gear, slide back into position, patch the hole in the back of the saw.

I'm just concerned about opening increasingly big can of worms on a saw that was running perfectly, and has now proven that replacement parts are not perfect matches.

[Alex Zeller]

It the parts aren't a perfect match but at least it seams like you can get it working. My 25 year old PM66 has very few parts still being made for it. It's either find used or break the saw down and sell the good parts on ebay.

[Bob Riefer]

Totally :-( I found some reasonable options for hole cutting saws that I can chuck into my drill to make a nice clean hole behind the shaft so that my approach above can be attempted. That would allow the rest of the perfectly-functioning aspects of the saw to remain untouched. The saw is a great performer if we can get over this issue (although, per other thread that I just posted today... I might be repairing and selling this saw in favor of purchasing another)