Casey, re-saw capacity and re-saw capability are not necessarily the same thing. The typical 14" saw can re-saw material but will not will not likely provide good results on taller material, even though it can fit between the guides and the table. That kind of re-sawing requires significant blade tension, a wider and more stable blade and a stiffer structure with more power to handle both. So if you're truly a "buy once" person, shoot bigger, even though it's a "first" saw and you might not be doing the heavier work with it at first. There is a practical limit, however. While you can run narrow blades on many bigger saws, it's not always optimal. Why? Because a large percentage of the larger saws use flat, rather than crowned, tires. That's great for wider blades because you actually hang the teeth off the edge of the tires. That's not possible with narrow blades, so you have to change the tracking to run them more centered and without the crown, the set suffers for it sooner. That's why you often see folks with a big-honkin' saw for re-saw work and a smaller saw for scrolling/general utility. Now I happen to run a 16" saw (2004 era MiniMax MM16) as a single tool. I don't use narrow blades very much for what I do, so the occasional reconfiguration to support them is no big deal. Most of the time, I run a 3/8' or 1/2" blade for "everything" on that machine.