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Thread: Very, very exciting eBay saw purchase (Tool Gloat)

  1. #1
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    Very, very exciting eBay saw purchase (Tool Gloat)

    This is on it’s way. Look closely. (I’m like a kid on Christmas Eve.)

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  2. #2
    Ok, Curtis, you got me....Is there a panther saw hidden under the red paint and rust?

  3. #3
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    Panther saw? No. But close. Better! At least by my tastes.

  4. #4
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    I’d guess a Disston 112 panel saw.

  5. #5
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    Ding ding ding! Nice job Phil. That’s my deduction as well. It was not identified in the listing. Once again, thanks to Disstonianinstitute.com for the assist. I can just make out “Disston & Sons Philada” on the medallion. The handle is shaped like a No. 12, but with a skewback blade. That it’s a panel saw makes it a walk off grand slam at the College World Series for me. The condition of the saw appears to be fantastic restorable shape.

    Of course, I could be wrong. Either way, I figured it would be fun to post a little unpacking party, so to speak, here at my favorite Website, as well as document rehab efforts. So, wish me luck, and stay tuned!

  6. #6
    Looks like a nice find. Let us know how the restoration goes. What is the length of that saw? It looks long for a panel saw but the handle is correct for that type.

  7. #7
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    The saw came in the mail today in a lot of three saws. I was thrilled to be able to confirm that it is indeed a Disston No. 112 panel saw. (Someone pinch me.) It has a 22 inch blade and 10 PPI. The latter is no doubt why it’s a survivor in the shape it’s in. It was made between 1901-1917.

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    The seller did an outstanding job packing

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    22 Inch blade

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    “PHILADA”

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    Unfortunately, the etch is nearly gone, but I can just make out “112.” I won’t be able to capture in a photo though.

    Ideally, I’d joint to the gullet and re-tooth to something more desirable, but that’s a little beyond my abilities and means. I’ll be restoring as time and materials allows and will post my progress here. The blade will require hammer truing and re-tensioning as it has a couple curving bends and a gradual bow. Not anything I’ve not dealt successfully with before. Should be be a fun project.

  8. #8
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    Congrats Curtis! If you find the time to take a few pictures, I would enjoy seeing the process you use for hammer truing and re-tensioning. Enjoy the restoration.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    Congrats Curtis! If you find the time to take a few pictures, I would enjoy seeing the process you use for hammer truing and re-tensioning. Enjoy the restoration.
    Will do. I use Bob Smalser’s step by step hammer truing process he posted somewhere (maybe here).

    [edit] Found the link... https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....Handsaw-Blades [/edit]

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    Snippet from Disston Catalog 100 R-9
    Last edited by Kurtis Johnson; 11-16-2019 at 12:49 AM. Reason: Found link I referred to

  10. #10
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    Okay, the work begins...

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    When possible, I like to use a putty knife on the thin slots of the saw nuts so as not to damage the soft brass. I keep thinking I’ll get around to dressing a large screwdriver for the job someday, but the putty knife works so well on non frozen nuts.

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    Tapa tapa tapa

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    I like to keep the nuts labeled for positive relocation

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    “2.” My two No. 12’s have a number stamped under the handle too. Can’t recall at the moment what number.

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    The obligatory utility blade scraping

    I have to break for a refrigerator delivery. I’ll be sanding and reconditioning the blade this afternoon.
    Last edited by Kurtis Johnson; 11-16-2019 at 1:34 PM.

  11. #11
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    Continuing work on the blade. The following Process I owe to Mark Harrell of Bad Axe.

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    Wizards Metal Renew, a Scotchbrite pad, a Sandflex block, an ultra fine sanding block, hours of elbow grease...

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    Wizards Power Seal

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    I’m calling the surface refurb of this blade done.

    I’ll be hammer straightening and tensioning it in the near future. But first, stripping the tote...
    Last edited by Kurtis Johnson; 11-17-2019 at 1:42 AM.

  12. #12
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    Now the tote...

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    Citristrip worked great on this one. Here is the second coat. It didn’t need two... I removed the first after three minutes to check how it was behaving. It sat for a walk around the neighborhood with my wife and son before I removed it. I used dental instruments to easily scrape out the carvings. I also used the wash to neutralize the Citristrip. Don’t recall the name of it.

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    Look what was under that red sprayed paint! Condition of this tote is way above average. No structural issues. A small chip at the bottom of the top horn, other that that, a small number of tiny dents and scratches overall. The carvings are super crisp.

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    Here is after a generous coating Feed-N-Wax and a polish. I’ll probably give it four coats of shellac in the near future.
    Last edited by Kurtis Johnson; 11-17-2019 at 2:21 AM.

  13. #13
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    That cleaned up real well. I’m with you regarding the scotchbrite pads and light abrasive and plenty of elbow grease. Makes me cringe when heavy abrasives are used on the plate...but that’s just me. Haven’t tried the Wizards...may have to get some. I’m sure it smells better than WD-40. Tote turned out really nice. I like the feen-n-wax as well. Not sure it even needs shellac.

    Look forward to the rest of the restoration.

  14. #14
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    Here is after a generous coating Feed-N-Wax and a polish.
    Feed-N-Wax is my favorite wood treatment. Often it is used on handles on the lathe with no other coating.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  15. #15
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    Nice find!!! and good start on restore..WIZARD bottle good product but always razor blade first.....Good job!!!
    Jerry

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