Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 29

Thread: Stair Treads Help

  1. #1

    Stair Treads Help

    I am getting back to my stairway project and need some advise on installing the treads.

    I am going to put Red Oak treads back on to replace the old ones. There are 16 treads to replace.

    #1 Should I buy a stair tread measuring Jig ? or could I make one ?
    Suggestions on a which one to buy or what plans for making one ?

    #2 How should I fasten the treads down ?
    Adhesive , Screw and face plug them. I have some Red Oak Face grain 1/4" plugs.
    Adhesive , nail and fill nail holes with wood filler ? I don't have a air nail gun that would drive finish nails so....I would have to
    pre drill them and hand nail them. So I would be pounding and might disturb some plaster/lath on the nearby walls.

    Suggestions please...Thank you

    I am going to put Fabulon clear coat on them for the finish.
    Here are a couple photos of my Old stair case.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Mike Burke; 11-13-2019 at 8:48 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    North Prairie, WI
    Posts
    194
    I made a stair tread jig. I gave it away to a contractor friend after I finished the stairways in our house, so I can't send you a picture of it, but it was super easy to build. There are pictures all over the Internet of suitable jigs. I made mine from scrap 3/4" baltic birch plywood, so it basically cost me four 1/4" carriage bolts, washers and wingnuts.

    I fastened my treads and risers with both adhesive and pocket screws drilled in the stringers from below. I don't know if you have access below, but those stairs are never moving. The next homeowner is going to have to pull out everything and rebuild them from scratch if they want to change anything on the stairs!

    Scott

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    50,229
    If, for some reason, you go with the drill/countersink, screw and plug method, don't use packaged plugs. Make your own from the same stock you are making your treads from and very carefully cut each plug so that you have an almost match for grain at the specific location that the plug needs to go into. While this can take a lot of time, the end result will be worth is as most, if not all of the plugs will be nearly invisible unless one looks carefully. I like and use the Veritas tapered plug cutters
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    I forgot to say...
    I donít have access under or behind the treads. Only from top side.

  5. #5
    I'd build a jig. I'm doing this same project, too, right now, and was amazed how expensive the commercial tread jigs are (for what is really just a couple scraps of ply and a few bolts and nuts).

    I've had good luck (in the past) using PL400 subfloor adhesive and finish nails. May be worth buying a cheap 16ga finish nailer for that many treads.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Highland MI
    Posts
    3,697
    Blog Entries
    11
    Build a jig. Here is mine:

    I would glue and finish nail after pre-drilling. That is what we did here on stranded bamboo laminate over 2x treads.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ole Anderson; 11-13-2019 at 12:18 PM.
    NOW you tell me...

  7. #7
    Thanks for the suggestions.
    I think I can make a measuring jig...looks easy enough.

    Would a air nailer work for nailing them ? 15ga 16 ga ?
    If I stuck with hand nailing them what size nails should I go with ?
    I have seen some "casing" nails that have large head
    Would finish nails be good enough ?
    Thanks again

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    1,152
    If you are using PL400 construction adhesive under these treads then the finish nails are just holding the treads in place until the adhesive cures. If you have never used construction adhesive you need to know the bond is permanent. I would use an air nailer. 16 gauge should be fine unless you want bigger holes to fill at the end of the job. If you do not want to pay much for a nailer check out a couple of pawn shops or rent one for a day.

  9. #9
    Renting tools is an awesome resource. Try it out on something cheap like a nailer
    Last edited by Bradley Gray; 11-14-2019 at 1:05 AM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    New York, NY
    Posts
    1,664


    Scribing treads is also pretty do-able without a jig.

  11. #11
    If you don't have a 16ga finish nailer, this would be a good reason to get one. You can buy a reputable brand (Makita, Hitachi) for ~$120, new. 2" nails would be right for these treads, plus it's useful for larger trim (baseboards, crown, etc).

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Highland MI
    Posts
    3,697
    Blog Entries
    11
    When I did the stranded bamboo overlay, I used finish nails. My 18 gauge nailer wouldn't consistently penetrate the hard bamboo, 30% of the time they would just crumple. Could have used my 15 gauge nailer, but by predrilling I could get a consistent clean set of the head. If you use a nailer, make sure it had the ability to consistently punch through 3/4" oak.
    NOW you tell me...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    6,194
    I may be old school, or maybe just old, but when it really matters I predrill and hand nail. I've seen too many pneumatic nails go sideways, crumple up, or otherwise wreck finish work to trust them. If I did it for a living, sure, but for small projects, no. If you do decide to go the pneumatic nailer route I would go with 16 gage, or even 15. If you hand nail, the nail should penetrate the holding piece of wood at least 1.5X the thickness of the piece being held. So for a 1" tread you'd use a 2-1/2" nail.

    John

  14. #14
    I am looking at premade unfinished Red oak treads at Menards.
    Has anyone had any experience with them ?
    Good quality or Not ?
    I see some of them are checked on the ends and different color so I am going to pick
    through them.
    Any thoughts on Menards stair treads ?
    Last edited by Mike Burke; 11-17-2019 at 3:04 PM.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    North Prairie, WI
    Posts
    194
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Burke View Post
    I am looking at premade unfinished Red oak treads at Menards.
    Has anyone had any experience with them ?
    Good quality or Not ?
    I see some of them are checked on the ends and different color so I am going to pick
    through them.
    Any thoughts on Menards stair treads ?
    I looked at those when I redid the stairs in my house and couldn't find enough that looked decent. I ended up going to a local lumberyard and bought some very nice stair tread material in 16 foot lengths that I then cut to size as I worked on them. It proved to be a lot less expensive and was better wood. I didn't have any returns to deal with, so it was easy to do it that way.

    Scott

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •