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Thread: SCMS Blade Brake Stopped Working

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    If you pull cut, almost any can have good dust collection. If you push cut, I doubt any will have decent dust collection. I never push cut, but started out just by habit from decades of using a RAS, and never had a good reason to switch to pushing. Pushing scares me.
    I never thought of that but it makes sense. But doesn't the blade want to dig in and jump forward, kind of like a router?
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

    Diapers and Politicians need to be changed often... Usually for the same reason.

  2. #17
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    Not if you're used to it, but yes, you have to control it. Decades of use with a RAS makes it second nature to me, so I don't even have to think about it.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald View Post
    Julie,

    Out of curiosity, how many wires go to the hand switch, you know, the switch you squeeze to operate the saw? The reason I ask, I am wondering if it might be a 2 section switch. One section turns on the motor while the other section disables the blade brake and they do the opposite when the switch is released.
    I opened the handle. The switch assembly has three wires. This is the assembly


    The hot attaches to the top, opposite the switch, of the electronic controller (beige rectangle) and the other two wires connect to the other side. I'm thinking that electronic controller is the culprit. Unfortunately, the switch assembly is obsolete.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

    Diapers and Politicians need to be changed often... Usually for the same reason.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Do a bit of research before you order a Kapex. While many folks love them, some have had some issues. festoolownersgroup dot com might be helpful for you there.
    Research says - it's not worth the gamble. Thanks for the heads up, Jim.

    Now, what saw will make me happy? I have (2) 10" Chopmaster blades and I rarely have found the need for a 12" so I'm going to stick with a 10". From everything I've read so far, the Makita LS1019L seems to have the best ratings. There is no 10" Dewalt SCMS. The Bosch CM10DG gets high ratings but I've read dust collection is horrible. If it's anything like the Bosch I have, I believe it.

    The loss of the brake worries me. I'm programmed to take the piece out right after cutting. One forgetful moment is all it takes.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

    Diapers and Politicians need to be changed often... Usually for the same reason.

  5. #20
    hartville tool has the kapex with the new motor for 1106.00 ...for how long I do not know..
    Be the kind of woman that when your feet hit the ground each morning, the devil says, "oh crap she's up!"


    Tolerance is giving every other human being every right that you claim for yourself.

    "What is man without the beasts? If all the beasts are gone, men would die from great loneliness of spirit. For whatever happens to the beasts will happen to man. All things are connected. " Chief Seattle Duwamish Tribe

  6. #21
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    Julie,
    FWIW - I have had the DEWalt 12" SCMS for about 6-7 years (I also have 3 other 10" chop saws dedicated to various specific tasks). I spent a great deal of time setting up the Dewalt to pretty exacting personal specs and could not be more pleased with it. I have been using it for last month trimming out a house I designed and it is still dead nuts on. The additional cutting depth and width have come in quite handy, much more that I had anticipated.

    I believe I have heard that the Bosch has less initial play (a good thing) and requires less space behind the unit.

  7. #22
    It's the switch.

  8. #23
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    Feb 2014
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    Might be worth flushing out the switch guts with contact cleaner. I fixed a non-functioning, obsolete switch on a 1/2" right-angle drill like that, and it's worked for a couple of years since then with not a single stutter.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Julie Moriarty View Post
    Research says - it's not worth the gamble. Thanks for the heads up, Jim.

    Now, what saw will make me happy? I have (2) 10" Chopmaster blades and I rarely have found the need for a 12" so I'm going to stick with a 10". From everything I've read so far, the Makita LS1019L seems to have the best ratings. There is no 10" Dewalt SCMS. The Bosch CM10DG gets high ratings but I've read dust collection is horrible. If it's anything like the Bosch I have, I believe it.

    The loss of the brake worries me. I'm programmed to take the piece out right after cutting. One forgetful moment is all it takes.
    Julie, I'm always good for a Makita LS plug when the opportunity comes up so...

    I currently have two, a 1013 and a 1018. The 1013 is nearing 20 years old, the 1018 is a couple. The 1013 (discontinued) is a better saw. It has more power and stays adjusted better if it gets dropped or slapped by a board or something. The 1018 is no slouch though, both work well. I pick Makita over the others for several reasons you mentioned. 10" blades are easily sourced, cheaper and I have no reason to need a 12" slider. Portability is relatively (for a SCMS) nice on both, meaning you can set the miter all the way to a lock, lock the slide, and carry one through a door without beating up the jambs. I haven't owned the 1019, but I have used one a little. They have the same Makita accuracy that I really like, I just dislike the current fad of moving sliding mechanisms higher. In my opinion it serves no practical benefit, but raises the center of gravity, and you lose some stability. Bosch, Dewalt and that one Makita are all guilty of it. One more thing, the Makita guard is far better than the others I've used, especially on the 1013. In my opinion, Dewalt guards are pretty bad.

    Oh, more to the point of the thread, I had was doing the same thing, it was a Dewalt, a switch fixed it.

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