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Thread: Making a parallel ripping jig for a K3 Slider

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Boulder, CO
    Posts
    198

    Making a parallel ripping jig for a K3 Slider

    The thing I 'm referring to is the "width to the slider side of the blade" point reference style for doing parallel ripping on the slider side. They sometimes come in pairs.

    For super big/long pieces, I already made a large rip sled that rides in the slider miter groove, but I'm looking for something more precise for smaller pieces that I can leave on the table most of the time. The awesomeness that is Sam Blasco seems to use a defunct Incra jig that uses an incremental positioner.

    I've watched a bunch of videos and reviewed a bunch of previous threads but I can't seem to figure out what's the best way to make a "parallel rip reference" implementation. It needn't be hyper fancy.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,274
    I use 2 crosscut fences with flip stops.......Rod

    P.S. You can build a Fritz und Franz jig with flip stops as well.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,859
    I originally built a quick and dirty parallel ripping jig that use the existing stops on my miter fence (or outrigger fence) for one end and the jig for the other. I've since switched to just using my Fritz and Franz jig for parallel ripping which I do quite frequently.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,492
    Matthew, this is my F&F jig (it has been simplified a little since this stage), which was Chris' idea.



    The far end is fixed (short throw Hammer K3), and the near side is a push clamp ...




    As I mentioned in another post, use a combination square as a parallel guide ..


    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 11-05-2019 at 1:03 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Boulder, CO
    Posts
    198
    Thanks for the responses. It literally never occurred to me to build a proper F&F for regular rip cuts shorter than the slider length. My current F&F is just two pieces of plywood with two runners (no stops or hold downs or anything) so I don't use it that much. Looks like I'm building a better jig.

    Derek, how does that work with the slider side toed out ever so slightly? Does it matter?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,492
    Matthew, my Hammer K3 runs parallel to the blade. Theoretically, I imagine that, if the slider runs slightly toe out, you may get a fractionally rougher cut as the saw teeth are not hitting squarely. It may not be evident.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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