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Thread: Crazy question of the day!

  1. #1
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    Crazy question of the day!

    I have a 10” Makita LS1013 sliding compound saw that the blade keeps coming loose. Have a Forrest 10” Chopmaster blade on it. Yea, I have the blade facing the correct way. I wonder if the motor, soft start or soft stop, is causing it or what. Ideas welcome. I roughed up the blade, washers, locking bolt but still does it. Charles.

    (not sure now of model number, will check when back in shop. Maybe LS 1013.). Yep, Mikita LS 1013

    could it be the brake?

    the shop has hot water radiant heat in the floor so the temperature stays with in a range depending on how quick the temp changes out side.
    Last edited by Charles Grauer; 11-04-2019 at 12:01 PM. Reason: Correction and adde info

  2. #2
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    Your soft stop or brake may be the cause of this. I once built an electronic brake for a table saw, and the first time that I tried it the saw stopped so suddenly that the blade momentum caused the arbor nut to loosen almost a full turn. After an adjustment I was able to reduce the braking force to keep this from happening, but I did need to keep the arbor nut really tight, or it would still happen. I have no experience at all with your Makita saw. Just passing along some of my experience from many years ago. The first thing that I would suggest is to do a better job of tightening the arbor nut. If that doesn't work, maybe Makita CS could offer more suggestions.


    Charley

  3. #3
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    Thanks Charley

  4. #4
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    I have the same problem with my Makita LS1013. I have cranked down the blade nut as tight as I dared and it still comes loose. I have tried several blades and have concluded that the blade isn't the problem. I do have a Oshlen laser on mine which may or may not be the cause. Would be nice if there is a fix for this.

  5. #5
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    I would put some Blue Loctite 242 on the bolt threads, it'll hold the bolt, but still allow it to be loosened easily for blade change. It you want a more permanent hold, use Red Loctite, but you'll have to apply a little blowtorch heat, to the bolt, before loosening.

  6. #6
    It's possible it's the brake. I've been running machinery before and had the electricity briefly go off and come back on and the blade on the saw would come loose. I also had a craftsman table saw that had a brake on it and had that problem until the brake malfunctioned and I removed it. After the brake was removed the blade never came loose again.

  7. #7
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    My guess is you live in the southern hemisphere so things are backward causing the blade to unscrew.
    Bill D.
    USA
    North America

  8. #8
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    Bill: I live in New York, that maybe why. Everything is sure different here that in the Midwest, Kansas and Colorado where we lived till 2 years ago. Came here to be near our son to assist us as we age. Thanks to all.

    ps; I don’t have a laser on mine so I don’t think that is causing it either.

  9. #9
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    The usual method (not necessarily for your saw) to brake the blade speed is to short the motor input after the power is removed. This is usually done in the power switch with a second set of switch contacts. A universal type motor becomes a generator if it's spinning with no power being applied. Put a load on this generator's output and it works itself to a stop. Again, I have no experience with your saw, but it likely has this set of braking contacts in the power switch. Adding a resistor of just one or two ohms of resistance and 10 or more watts in size to this braking circuit could solve your problem, but it will require some experimenting to see what value works best. Too much resistance and the braking circuit won't work well. Too little and you won't see enough improvement.

    For an induction motor like used in larger table saws, applying DC power will brake the motor, since these motors depend on the frequency of the power to cause rotation. If you apply DC power briefly, the motor will stop turning very quickly. In this case, the DC voltage level will determine how rapidly the brake function works, but if you leave the DC power on too long, you can overheat the motor windings.

    NY, ah yes. The land of crazy high taxes and brutal cold Winters. I grew up there, but moved South 36 years ago. I go back for visits, but much prefer living in NC.

    Charley
    Last edited by Charles Lent; 11-06-2019 at 9:01 AM.

  10. #10
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    I do not know exactly how they do it but a VFD adjusts the output to quickly slow down a motor by adjusting the frequency and phase? when told to brake a motor to a stop. No fooling with resisters. Instead you adjust the deceleration time in seconds inside the program. Similar deal for acceleration up to speed.
    No less then 3-5 seconds is often mentioned so that nothing is over stressed.
    Bil lD.

  11. #11
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    I'm surprised that a machine with a brake doesn't have pins to lock the blade, my table saw does..........Rod.

  12. #12
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    I have that same saw and when I changed the stock blade out for a Forrest WWII, I had the same problem. It's been several years since I had that experience and can't remember exactly the issue, but I'm pretty sure it was a mistake in the installation. I remember that I had disassembled the blade guard system more than I needed to to change the blade - was the first time I changed the blade on that saw. I will look the saw over today and see if I can trigger a memory of exactly what the issue was.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    I have that same saw and when I changed the stock blade out for a Forrest WWII, I had the same problem. It's been several years since I had that experience and can't remember exactly the issue, but I'm pretty sure it was a mistake in the installation. I remember that I had disassembled the blade guard system more than I needed to to change the blade - was the first time I changed the blade on that saw. I will look the saw over today and see if I can trigger a memory of exactly what the issue was.
    I googled the problem and found an old thread I had started here on the Creek when I had this problem. My issue was more about getting the spring set properly for the blade guard than the blade spinning free. You can read thru the thread at this link but the bottom line was that the arbor nut was just loose. Maybe some of the suggestions about using loc tite, etc might help. I just tightened down the nut apparently. So, not much help for you in the end I guess.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

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