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Thread: tested LMM14 v LMM6000 v LS100 v LS900

  1. #1

    tested LMM14 v LMM6000 v LS100 v LS900

    I decided to spend a few minutes with my 2 Gravograph's and 2 Cermarks and see what happens...

    First, I shook well the LMM14 and poured a smidge into a shot glass, then dribbled about an equal amount of DNA in then stirred with a small, new artists brush. Then I smeared some on a 1x3 stainless plate. First thing I noticed was you can't brush this stuff, it won't flow. It was a bit thick, but not THAT thick. Wouldn't flow flat. So I smeared it as evenly as possible with the brush. It was a bit lean -and heavy- in spots, but not bad. IF I started using this, I'd have to spray it. Foam brush might work, but...

    Then I shook up some LMM6000 and smeared a second plate with it, using an artists fan brush. As usual, the 6000 flowed out nice and flat.

    Then I took the 2 plates to the LS100 machine and ran the large text. Then I moved the plates to the LS900 and engraved the small text.

    Most of you know that I complain that the lens in my LS100 makes Cermark GRAY instead of BLACK. My LS900, and my GCC, makes Cermark BLACK. I confirmed that the LS100 LENS is the problem, not the machine (the LS900 lens used in the LS100 makes black)..

    So I was HOPING that, due to the positive reviews, the LMM14 would go black in the LS100 rather than gray.

    Nope.

    Both version work identically, to my eye. The 14 is a bit inconsistent, but it matches the inconsistent layer I brushed on. Otherwise, there's no difference between it and the 6000...
    614a.jpg
    When you view these full size, you'll note the smaller lettering is several shades darker than the large lettering, in both versions of Cermark.
    And for fun, I split the colors of this photo to CYMK in CorelPaint, and the negative-yellow version came out like this-
    614b.jpg
    --at full size, the smaller lettering is much brighter- which means much blacker- than the larger...
    It's frustrating to not be able to use the 100 for Cermarking, so I guess it's time to buy a new lens.

    I have many lenses for the Triumph (which will make Cermark brown, gray, gold, anything BUT black) that I could test but they're all 20mm lenses, and the LS100 uses a 19mm. But maybe I can jury-rig a holder for testing. I'm real curious if my GaAs lenses will work...

    Anyway, next test with the LMM14 is to try spraying it. I do like how it works, just not how it brushes on..
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  2. #2
    No test here but an example of the density of LMM6000 applied with a foam brush. Consistency of 2% milk.

    I always run Cermark at 600 dpi.

    IMG_0022.jpg
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Evolis Card Printer
    CorelDraw X5

  3. #3
    Looks good -That's my normal MO, thin 6000, foam brush, nice black results...

    More than anything I just want the LS100 to make ANY blackening agent go black instead of the gray I'm getting. This laser is by far the best-engraving laser I own, and is the most powerful of my 3 metal lasers...
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  4. #4
    Join Date
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    When I've done the LMM14, a foam brush works, but it eats it up. So you have bits of foam in the material pretty quickly.
    I successfully used a small acid brush to brush it out. But it doesn't like to be brushed.
    Woodworking, Old Tools and Shooting
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