The start of a build

[Doug Garson]

Doug, it is a matter of using something to measure the position of the board at each end, so that when you silide the board forward, the positioning is maintained.

I use a set of combination squares, each extended to reach from the side of the slider (which is square and a reliable reference) to the edge of the work piece. Make sure you mark this position on the work piece. Do the same at the other end of the board.

When you slide the work piece forward, use the combination square to return the board to the same position. The shape of the side of the workpiece does not matter since you have taken this into account with the combination square.

Regads from Perth

Derek

OK now I get it one end might be 2" from the edge and the other 2 1/4" and you use 2 tee squares one set for each of those dimensions. Very clever, thanks for clarifying.

[Paul F Mills]

Thanks, Derek

[Mel Fulks]

Derek, somehow I didn't see your post til now. The top and side look OK in close up. Bottom piece looks kinda'
whittled and crude, and I guess that's what got my attention. A "cove and bead " type edge might look good too,and
a little less office-like.

[Derek Cohen]

Mel, those were my thoughts as well. A straight chamfer looks kind of clinical, where as a cove should soften the edge and create a warmer look.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Matt Lau]

This will be lovely. Thanks for sharing, Derek

[Mick Simon]

Derek, I'm going to the Felder open house in Dallas next week. If I return with a receipt for a sliding tablesaw I'm billing you for at least half of it!

[andy bessette]

...Here you can see that it comes up short ...The solution is to use a combination square to register the position of the side of the board at the front, and then slide the board forward and reposition it ... and repeat at the rear ...

A better solution is to use a track saw to straighten the edge, rather than work around the limitations of the sliding saw.

[Derek Cohen]

Andy, I do not own a track saw. 98% of the time my slider is long enough. The work around does a terrific job, and takes a couple of minutes to set up and saw. I could easily get around 100" in length. I also have a 4" depth of cut. What can your track and saw get?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[andy bessette]

Andy, I do not own a track saw. 98% of the time my slider is long enough. The work around does a terrific job, and takes a couple of minutes to set up and saw. I could easily get around 100" in length. I also have a 4" depth of cut. What can your track and saw get?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek--the material you picture being ripped appears to be far less than 4" thick, and I have never had to rip anything near that thickness. Nor have I ever owned a sliding saw. Ripping long boards is far easier and quicker using the track saw or table saw (of which I have four). Really think your estimate of "a couple minutes to setup and saw" is a great exaggeration. The cost of an excellent track saw is negligible when compared to that of a sliding saw. Though, if you normally only work with short pieces like the ones pictured, I see why you would not mind the extra time it takes you to do it on the slider on those rare occasions.

[Jim Becker]

Different strokes for different folks... ...literally in this case.

[Patrick Walsh]

Lol, Jim that’s pretty darn funny....

You know and not to just be a fan boy or another guy in the slider club.

But you know I also agree the slider is way more easy than the track saw for this task. Or actually the same dam difference if nothing else. Slap the piece down make a couple marks, align the marks with either the track, the blade, a sliding table, the fence whatever and cut. Neither option is the slightest complicated or time consuming and none of it rocket science if you know your way around a shop in the slightest.

I’ll say this, when I relied on a track saw for straight lining rough lumber I often ran in the the issue of my Festool saw “whatever the big one is” not having enough depth of cut. The solution was a handsaw to finish the cut. Sure you could flip but is you screw up well you gotta do it again. The hand saw and block plane and your good to go. Again no big deal either way.

But you know honestly the above is not a big deal but I don’t have the time for all that when I can just throw the piece down on a sliding saw. Clamp it and run it by the blade.

Plus you known that hammer slider is not really all that expensive other than that it’s a Australian Hammer and their exchange rate stinks. Beyond that used slider can be had for fairly short money all said.

I understand a slider is a expense and honestly not everyone has the room nor do they want to make the room. But if the argument is it’s just as easy with a track saw. Well maybe but imop nothing is as easy as throwing on the slider.

Yup I’m a slider fanboy. Can’t imagine building much of anything without one ever again. Could I sure we all can, I just find a slider a indispensable tool for a myriad of task.

Different strokes for different folks... ...literally in this case.

[Derek Cohen]

Derek--the material you picture being ripped appears to be far less than 4" thick, and I have never had to rip anything near that thickness. Nor have I ever owned a sliding saw. Ripping long boards is far easier and quicker using the track saw or table saw (of which I have four). Really think your estimate of "a couple minutes to setup and saw" is a great exaggeration. The cost of an excellent track saw is negligible when compared to that of a sliding saw. Though, if you normally only work with short pieces like the ones pictured, I see why you would not mind the extra time it takes you to do it on the slider on those rare occasions.

Hi Andy

It’s a little egocentric of me to expect you to be aware that I only work with rough sawn timbers and never with panels. I do have a circular saw, but find it easier to crosscut to rough size a board on the slider. The boards in the photo started at about 2” thick, but many I get are 4” thick. I was pointing to them.

As Jim, Patrick and others have noted, one of the delights of a slider is the ease of ripping - without using the rip fence. The Hammer K3 I have is a one of this with a shorter slider (49” ... and many have twice this length).

My shop is in one half of a double garage, and I lack the space for anything longer. The size of a sliding saw is deceptive - the slider must travel to the front and rear. Mine just squeezes in at the bench end.

For some time I was under the impression that would limit the length that could be ripped on my shorter slider. The purposes of this post was not simply to illustrate the start of a build, but to demonstrate a technique (which I had not seen anyone else use) to rip a longer board than the slider. In practice, it takes a minute to slide the board forward in the kerf, and position them (using a pair of combination square, or something equivalent - I think I will make a set of wooden versions just for this purpose).

This looks as if there is plenty of space ...



.... until looked from this angle ...



Perhaps I should get a cut from Felder for helping sell shorter sliders to those who believe that they have limitations?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Patrick Walsh]

I have to say my favorite use for a slider is not ripping but crosscutting.

For instance rails and stiles for door parts. Or anytime you need any to thinks exactly the same length and dead square.

I have no use for a miter saw anymore. I break my rough stock down with a circular saw. Miter saws have so many issues. As many have said they are made for site work as a best case option..

Otherwise I loath the things.

Hi Andy

It’s a little egocentric of me to expect you to be aware that I only work with rough sawn timbers and never with panels. I do have a circular saw, but find it easier to crosscut to rough size a board on the slider. The boards in the photo started at about 2” thick, but many I get are 4” thick. I was pointing to them.

As Jim, Patrick and others have noted, one of the delights of a slider is the ease of ripping - without using the rip fence. The Hammer K3 I have is a one of this with a shorter slider (49” ... and many have twice this length).

My shop is in one half of a double garage, and I lack the space for anything longer. The size of a sliding saw is deceptive - the slider must travel to the front and rear. Mine just squeezes in at the bench end.

For some time I was under the impression that would limit the length that could be ripped on my shorter slider. The purposes of this post was not simply to illustrate the start of a build, but to demonstrate a technique (which I had not seen anyone else use) to rip a longer board than the slider. In practice, it takes a minute to slide the board forward in the kerf, and position them (using a pair of combination square, or something equivalent - I think I will make a set of wooden versions just for this purpose).

This looks as if there is plenty of space ...



.... until looked from this angle ...



Perhaps I should get a cut from Felder for helping sell shorter sliders to those who believe that they have limitations?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[andy bessette]

Totally understand about limited space; for a number of years I worked out of a single-car garage on an ancient 8" Sears tilt-table saw (3rd photo).

By some of the other comments it seems I was misunderstood to be dissing the sliding saw because I mentioned one of its limitations--that was not my intent.
My principal table saw has a combination carbide blade and the Laguna sliding table added; first photo shows the slide mounted with the table stored under the saw's extension/router table. 2nd photo shows my ripping and dado setup.

[Steve Fish]

Ok maybe a dumb question but would a long crosscut sled work in the slider groove to gain another foot or so of capacity?
Anyway, I’m looking forward to the rest of this build. Thanks for taking the time to document it.