Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 20 of 20

Thread: Fiber marking contoured gun slides

  1. #16
    All my machines are 30w, this was done on the Triumph. Your 20 will do it, just takes a bit longer.

    IIRC I did some test lines at 0 power and about 60 freq to test, I just did one or two centerlines, hoping to engrave a mark from the highest to lowest points. Once I lowered the focus to where it DID fully mark, I ran with it. If it wouldn't have worked, the idea was the marks that did show up could be sanded and polished out easily. Fortunately it worked okay!

    xh1.jpg xh3.jpg
    Last edited by Kev Williams; 11-03-2019 at 6:43 PM.
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    NW Arkansas
    Posts
    1,597
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thought one was a 20.... Yeah, I engraved on an old Smith & Wesson revolver cylinder Saturday. I set focus about a mm or so below the surface and It worked well.
    Woodworking, Old Tools and Shooting
    Ray Fine RF-1390 Laser
    Ray Fine 20watt Fiber Laser
    PM2000, Delta BS, Delta sander, Powermatic 50 jointer,
    Powermatic100-12 planer, Rockwell 15-126 radial drill press
    Rockwell 46-450 lathe, and 2 Walker Turner RA1100 radial saws

    RIA 22TCM 1911s

  3. #18
    Beautiful job. So you didn't do any rotation or anything, just lined that front strap facing upward and went for it?

    Once you went for it were you using any of the "drill mode" stuff or deep engrave options? I would like to test these options but I don't know what the results will be.

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by John Lifer View Post
    Thought one was a 20.... Yeah, I engraved on an old Smith & Wesson revolver cylinder Saturday. I set focus about a mm or so below the surface and It worked well.

    I notice that I accomplish a lot by going out of focus by being further away and opposed to being closer to it. I was doing my business cards and chose to engrave a wolf face to show the photo engraving capabilities and I am able to dial in how much "shading" I want by pulling the head a little away from it. When I went in closer the focus change didn't seem to accomplish as much as pulling away.


    Do you find any rhyme or reason to where to place the head focus-wise to accomplish certain tasks or is it really just test test test based on the current project at hand?

  5. #20
    Just lined it up and ran it. Took quite awhile I've never even tried drill mode-- I HAVE used wobble a bit, but I haven't had time to learn the 'tuning' do's and dont's. One time I accidentally got a jet black roasted finish on an actual ammo can with wobble, looked really cool but I didn't save the settings so I wouldn't know to do it again...

    and no focus rhyme or reason, when doing that grip I found the focus spot where the whole grip engraved and went with it. But when engraving a dark mark on anodized aluminum, if the focus runs out only 1/16" the mark lightens up big time, and trying to refocus lower and make up the difference just screws up the first engraving...

    These machines are amazing-- and amazingly frustrating!
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •