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Thread: Recommended finish for shop cabinets?

  1. #1

    Recommended finish for shop cabinets?

    Curious if there’s any consensus for easy to apply, easy cleanup finish. I will have to do inside and out on some basic plywood face frame cabinets with shelves and drawers. Just looking for something pretty durable that will shed any dust pretty easily. Also any advice on protecting MDF tops if I go that route?

    Thanks,

  2. #2
    I like water based urethane or polyacrylic on cabs. Dries fast and easy to clean up.

    Lots of people use boiled linseed oil, however I quit using that because it will not prevent accidental water spillage from swelling the MDF.

    Poly will work well on MDF (not water based, of course). I thin it about 1/3 with mineral spirits. Apply 3 coats sand between coats with 220.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Water borne clear for the cabinets. For the MDF, I honestly just use BLO as I do for maple. That big miter station I just ripped out had MDF for the top and it was in excellent condition despite dating to 2004 or so with just BLO on it. I don't like using film finishes on work surfaces in the shop...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    Depends what you use your MDF tops for. Personally, for shop cabinets, I think shellac is good. It sticks to anything, seals against glue spills, sands smooth easily, dries easily.

    When I use wipe-on varnish, I usually wipe down my bench with the rag after an application.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Fish View Post
    Curious if there’s any consensus for easy to apply, easy cleanup finish. I will have to do inside and out on some basic plywood face frame cabinets with shelves and drawers. Just looking for something pretty durable that will shed any dust pretty easily. Also any advice on protecting MDF tops if I go that route?

    Thanks,
    Assuming your shop isn't exactly climate controlled I would use an exterior paint. You could use latex however on the MDF I would start with an oil based primer. I would either band the edges of the MDF with solid wood or veneer tape. Edges of MDF are difficult to paint since it's paper and tends to drink up anything you put on it. An oil based enamel would be more durable but takes longer to dry and clean up more trouble.

  6. #6
    Thanks guys. I’m ok when it comes to basic wall and trim painting but this stuff is mostly foreign.
    Robert, are you doing three cotes and sanding in between with 350-400ish paper?
    Prashun, I definitely like the idea of something that will resist some wood glue, sometimes things get a little out of hand when I have the titebond out. I’m curious about how you are applying it and how many cotes on raw MDF
    Jim, thanks man. I might try some of the BLO on a sample piece to see what it does. I’m a little concerned about drying time with the constant humidity down here but it sounds like it holds up really well

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