Stupid sawing question

[Dan Gaylin]

I have some 5” diameter maple discs that are perfect for waste blocks but they are too thick (nearly 1”). I want to cut them in half. I have all the usual saws including a bandsaw with a 13” throat. But what do I use to safely hold the disc against the fence so it doesn’t go flying? I’m sure there’s a jig I can build but I’m not sure what it would look like. Is there a simple solution here? Thanks!

-dan

[Steve Eure]

I built a sled to process logs into slabs or to cut for turning blanks that would work. It runs in the miter slot and is adjustable. If I had your situation, I would hot glue the blank on that sled and slice it in half. You have to find a way to keep it from rolling on you which is very dangerous.
Google homemade band saw log mill and you will get several results that might work for you and is fairly easy to build.

[Dan Gaylin]

Steve,

Thanks for your response. That would work. The hot glue is a good idea that may make for a simpler solution. Why not hot glue the discs to a (say) 10” long piece of 6x6 lumber, cut square? The lumber is pushed against the miter sled and aligned so the disc at the end is sawn in half.

Am I missing something here?

[Tom Giacomo]

I do exactly what you proposed but run the 6x6 along the fence.

[Dave Fritz]

Consider the blade choice. I've found a course 3 tpi blade is worse than a 6 tpi blade. But then maybe it wouldn't matter if both blades were sharp. Anyone have an opinion on that?

[Peter Blair]

Thanks for posting this question. I have some 1/2" thick discs about 2" in diameter that I want to split in half. The hot glue solution may work fo rme but the remaining 1/4" or thinner round may not come away from the hot glue intact. I wonder about turners tape?

[Reed Gray]

Well, if you have a long thin parting tool, mount them between centers and part it down the middle. Personally I wouldn't bother making them thinner, not worth the effort.

robo hippy

[Peter Blair]

I'm with Robo on this one. I usually use the blocks several times, parting the item off and reusing.

[Dan Gaylin]

Robo, Peter — so your argument is just glue the 1” thick disc to my bowl blank, turn a (say) 1/4” spigot on it and let the waste block itself provide the shoulder for the chuck? That’s nice and simple alright and definitely gives the option of reusing the waste block. It didn’t occur to me. I guess with a good glue joint it’s as safe as having the bowl blank be the shoulder...maybe safer now that I think about it as the chuck isn’t stressing the joint.

[Peter Blair]

Exactly! I like to be able to begin to shape the bottom or foot while in the chuck and I agree that pressure on the joint would not be a good idea.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I'm with the others, fwiw. A 1" glue block is not too thick. I screw a face plate to mine and the thicker the glue block is, the better.

[Reed Gray]

You can turn a tenon/spigot on the glue block, or screw in a face plate. the tenon, no more than 1/4 inch high might be the better option, because if you are parting off the bowl blank, then you never have to worry about parting off screws as well. For the glue joint to work, both surfaces need to be pretty much dead flat. Possibly slightly concave, but never convex. The paper joint works well, unless you have a big catch. I never use glue blocks though, and not just because I turn green wood. If you are turning a very expensive exotic wood, then yes, but for standard bowls, use a recess or tenon. Most of the time the depth needed for a good hold is 3/16, or even 1/8 inch if you are using dry wood. I do have a video up about 'Mounting things on the lathe', under my alias of robo hippy, and a bunch of other bowl turning clips...

robo hippy

[Thomas Canfield]

You can make a "V" section about half thickness of disk and then attach to plate to give you a flat base to pass on table. Add a couple o screws through back of plate to fasten disk (waste anyway) to keep from rotating. I have learned that it is easier to resaw boards to get thinner section for waste blocks and then tack together to hold to cut out the disks cutting 2 or more when stacked.

[robert baccus]

I have used several types of fastening blanks to turn. My fav. is to put a single screw in the chuck--drill a pilot hole in the 1"+ hardwood glueblock--screw it on the SScrew--turn flat and round--With thick CA glue on the bowl blank pressed on and centered by the tailstock. Start turning and making curls. I use this method on blanks up to 100#'s plus--of course use the tailstock as long as possible. Sounds long on paper but is very fast and you reuse the GB's many times. I turn the outside and hollow insides still on the GB. For bowls I find it easier to drill and SS the mouth of the Bowl blank--turn the outside and a tenon or GB flat on the bottom--reverse and hollow and finish on the lathe. Also GB's are easy to make several of and can be left on the rough turned blank for curing with endseal--helps prevent bottom cracks as well. Done hundreds this way.