A sawing problem that needs help

[Joe McMahon]

I am trying to make a traditional rolling pin that would be about 3" in diameter and 15" long, then add handles. I first glue up a blank and then plan on turning it into a cylinder- all pretty straightforward stuff. The problem arises because I want to incorporate a Celtic Cross into the pin. To do this, before turning, you must true up the blank, making the sides square to each other, with both sides being equal and therefore making a long square. To make the Celtic Cross, you first mark the mid point of the long edge, then strike a line 5" on each side of the center line. Then mark the diagonal between the outside lines. This line is about 60 degrees across the blank (I hope you can follow my poor explanation!). I then made a crosscut sled for my tablesaw, and put in blocks which held the blank so that when I ran it through the saw, it made a cut of 60 degrees, starting 5" from one end of the blank, exiting on the opposite side 5" from the other end, cutting the blank in two pieces at 60 degrees. I then take a piece of contrasting wood which is the thickness of my saw blade (the removed kerf width) and glue it between the two pieces. Next, (after the glue dries) spin the blank 90 degrees and repeat. Do this until I have made four cuts in the blank and inserted four contrasting, thin pieces of wood, one in each side.


Long way around the barn to get to my problem: When I make those four 60 degree cuts, the blade doesn't go high enough to get through the 1/2 jig and the 3" blank. It is about 3/8" too short. For this to work, it is critical that the four cuts start and end at the same place on each side. If I flip the blank over, I could cut the 3/8" off, but it isn't exactly flat & flush with the first cut and therefore the thin blank won't glue up strong. As it is I am gluing partial end grain to side grain, to end grain with the contrasting wood sandwich, not the best thing for something that needs to be strong.


Any ideas of some way to get either a larger blade or make the cut evenly and completely through the blank?

[Clint Baxter]

Just need to not place your item atop the sled. You could use a miter gauge with a long fence attached to make your cuts. Attach a stop to your fence and all your cuts will occur on the exact same distance from the end placed against the stop. You could even clamp your piece being cut, to the fence on each side of the cut to make sure it doesn't move on you.

Clint

[Joe McMahon]

That is a GREAT idea. Thanks!!

[Prashun Patel]

Another solution is to bandsaw the blank apart after the initial pass on the table saw and then joint or handplane the surface. This will also remove saw marks and result in a better glue surface.

[Joe McMahon]

Another solution is to bandsaw the blank apart after the initial pass on the table saw and then joint or handplane the surface. This will also remove saw marks and result in a better glue surface.

The problem with using a bandsaw for the cut is that the inserted piece of contrasting wood must be the thickness of the saw blade kerf. A bandsaw blade is too thin. To make a double cut at a consistent thickness to get a reasonably thick piece of inserted wood, time after time, is beyond my ability.

[Prashun Patel]

No I am suggesting doing the initial cut in the table saw and then cutting that last little lip with the bandsaw. Then you joint if flush to the tablesawed faces. It works precisely because the bandsaw blade is thinner than the ts kerf.

[Joe McMahon]

Oh, now I understand what you are saying. I could then handplane the sides to get them flat?

[Prashun Patel]

Yes. The beauty is that the little 1/2" lip is a cinch to plane by hand. You will also have the 2+" of the table sawn face to serve as a reference for the sole of your plane, so it's not like it takes a lot of judgment or skill with a handplane.