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Thread: Table saw dado blade question

  1. #1

    Table saw dado blade question

    I have a Ridgid contractor saw (TS3650) and want to try a dado set I inherited with my dad’s radial arm saw. When I went to install it with two blades and four chippers (for a 3/4 dado), I found that the arbor wasn’t long enough to use both blade washers. There wasn’t enough thread outside the washer to attach the nut. I can leave the washer off and tighten the nut directly up against the blade but I’m not sure if this is safe.

    At 1 1/2 hp, I realize this isn’t a powerful saw and I’ll have to be conservative with the width and depth of dados I cut but I’d like to use the set if possible and 3/4” seems like a useful width.

    Any thoughts?

  2. #2
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    I had a TS3650 for nearly 10 years and ran it with an 8" Oshlun dado set. When you get close to that 3/4" width you will indeed have to use just the nut without the washer. As long as everything is stacked in there correctly (i.e. no teeth are touching) and the nut is on tight, you will be fine.
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  3. #3
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    Most arbors, even on cabinet saws aren't long enough for both washers when using the dado's full width. I manual for my saw says to leave off the outer washer if needed.

  4. #4
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    That saw is not up to the job.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    That saw is not up to the job.
    I beg to differ on that one. As I noted, I ran an 8" dado stack on that saw for years without any problems. Yeah, the saw is pretty under-powered, but as long as you know that and understand that, it will work just fine.
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  6. #6
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    I also ran 3/4" dado stacks on my 1HP contractor without issue. No washer as discussed previously. The machine being up to the job may be the difference in viewpoint of the hobbyist / occasional dado'er and a pro shop where things need to move at a faster pace. I get away with a lot of things as a hobbyist that would have no room in a pro shop (or an impatient one ). I sometimes spend more time on setup than a production shop would spend on a whole kitchen door run.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


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  7. #7
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    There is more to it than the power of the motor. 5/8" arbor, diameter of shaft between bearings and size of the bearings themselves are all factors that come into play when spinning that much additional weight at 3500-4500 rpm. At the very least, I'd only run a 6" dado and only once in a great while- after attending church. Dave

  8. #8
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    I run an 8" dado set on my Ridgid TS-3650. When I get to 3/4", I do run without the outside oversized stabilizer nut without any problem.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    That saw is not up to the job.
    I ran an 8" dado stack in my 1.5 HP Jet contractor saw for years with nary a hint of drama, stress or overload. The biggest dado I ever cut with it was probably 3/4 x 3/4, so as long as expectations are realistic there should be no problem.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    That saw is not up to the job.
    Certainly not true! Like others above I also have the TS3650 and have used a 3/4" dado (without the flanged washer) and it worked very well.
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  11. #11
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    I used a Ridgid model 3650 with a dado blade for probably 15 years. I made beehive boxes on a regular basis which required a 3/4" cut. The saw has plenty of power and the arbor is plenty strong. You just have to leave off the washer when using a full stack. It is the same way on every table saw I have ever used, including several cabinet saws. I have seen a lot of them in the 40 years I have been woodworking and have never encountered a problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    There is more to it than the power of the motor. 5/8" arbor, diameter of shaft between bearings and size of the bearings themselves are all factors that come into play when spinning that much additional weight at 3500-4500 rpm. At the very least, I'd only run a 6" dado and only once in a great while- after attending church. Dave

  12. #12
    Excellent. Thanks for all the advice!

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    That saw is not up to the job.
    Hold my beer.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    That saw is not up to the job.
    Once again Andy, I must disagree! I have run the dado stack on both of my table saws many times with no problems. As others have mentioned, when running at full width both washers don't fit. This is not a problem. As long as the nut is tight and the stack runs true, this is a safe and acceptable method of mounting and using this setup.
    David

  15. Hey all,
    I have a similar question with regard to my Delta Contractor saw.

    I know an 8” dado stack will certainly fit on my 10” 1.5 HP Delta Contractor’s Saw (Delta 34-444 early 90s model). But the owner’s manual says to use a 6 inch stack. I’ll likely never need the additional depth unless I make a dado cross cut sled, but the 6 inch Freud SD506 6 inch dado stack is MORE expensive than the SD508 8 Inch dado stack.

    My saw is wired for 240V, which is supposed to make this Delta motor a 2HP, but I’m not so sure on that. It does seem to start and run much better in 240V than it did as a 120V saw, but that is purely subjective.
    My question is: Will running an 8 Inch Freud SD508 dado stack hurt the saw motor (or me) or should I really stick to the 6 inch SD506 dado stack??? Thanks in advance.

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