How would you go about making this?

[Brian Holcombe]

That’s pretty much required for their to be any structure to the joint, but having that big flag on there pushes the shoulder very far away. If it wiggles at all, it will split that off. I’d trim it back to the radius’ end.

Better still, cut them parallel to the leg, ending as the radii terminate and make the tenon shoulders at an angle.

Angled joints have many structural advantages but a practical cutout disadvantage is that the mortise depth is very difficult to make matching the angle of the leg, inevitably it’s shorter at the bottom.

[Jim Becker]

Makes sense. I was just curious.

[David Justice]

I am using long dowels to connect the stretcher to the 'flag' that protrudes from the leg. The dowels reach into the round part of the leg and these are small, 3 legged accent tables, so they won't be holding a ton of weight. I think the dowels and glue will be plenty strong enough.

[Mark Hennebury]

this is the way that i would do the joint part3b.jpg

[David Justice]

Thanks for all of the advice everyone. Pictures attached of how the tables came out. Client was very happy. These were a ton of work, but a great learning experience.

IMG_2938.jpg
IMG_2940.jpg
IMG_2939.jpg

[Jim Becker]

Darn...you NAILed that project! Those are absolutely beautiful.

[lowell holmes]

How about putting a radius on the small piece, glue together, and put two dowels through the two to anchor it?

[David Justice]

Thanks Jim!

[Prashun Patel]

Those came out great. I think harder than the curved transitions is the compound joinery for a triangular table.

I am making a similar staked hall table, and am torn between the direction of the wedges. I see you've not gone perp to the grain of the top on all three.

Timely pix!

Thanks for posting.
pp