Auger bit recommendations

[Prashun Patel]

I am dusting off my bit brace, and looking for a good set of auger bits for drilling hardwood.

Any recommendations?

[Jim Koepke]

I am dusting off my bit brace, and looking for a good set of auger bits for drilling hardwood.

Any recommendations?

One question raises many…

Are you looking for a set or individual sizes?

Are you looking for new or are you interested in vintage?

My sets consist of Irwin and Russel Jennings with a few extra bits for each. Then there is another set of no name bits plus various others. My eyes are always looking for more at yard & estate sales. Often bits can be found for less than a dollar. Most if they are more than that are left behind for someone else to take home. It is advantageous to have a few spares to use in work where it is unknown if there are hidden nails or screws.

There are a lot of bits listed on ebay as sets and individually.

One thing to watch when buying used is some owners would cut the tang off of the bit so it could be used in an electric drill.

Also be sure to make sure they have not been improperly or over sharpened. The spurs should be able to cut a full revolution circle before the cutting edges begin to penetrate the surface.

Augers made for hardwood tend toward a single lead thread whereas bits made for softwood will often have a double spiral for the lead thread. The double spiral thread pulls the bit through faster. Hardwood goes slower.

My post from years ago may be of some help:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?131238

Here is a link to an Irwin pamphlet on selecting bits:

https://toolemera.com/pampdf/irwinhowtoPAM.pdf

Then of course there are many folks who like modern bits manufactured with three flutes. Someone else can sing their praises since none have found their way into my shop.

jtk

[David Eisenhauer]

grandpas little farm dot com may have something that works for you.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Prashun

I have used both Jennings and Irwin for many years. They are good. Just learn to sharpen, and they will do all you want. A few years back I bought a bunch of WoodOwl auger bits. These are Japanese. Rather than the usual two cutting edges, these have three. Very smooth and fast cutting.

Regards from Perth

Dere

[Philip Glover]

I have an old set (1950's) of Russell - Jennings bits.
It is a boxed set of 13 bits, type 101. The size range is 1/4" to 1". Once sharpened they are excellent. The 101 bits are generally better for hardwood. The 100 type (more common) is generally better for softwood. The difference, however, is not that great.
The difference in the types is in the point. The 100's have a double lead screw which means that they will feed twice as far per revolution.
These used sets can be found quite easily and are less expensive than the new German or Austrian offerings. Usually $100 to $225 depending on condition.

Good hunting,
Phil

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks, Guys. I would like to bore holes in chair seats with these. The wood will likely be soft to medium hardwoods (cherry/walnut).

I would love to learn to sharpen them. I need them in 3/8", 1/2", and 5/8". So, I'm reluctant to buy a whole set.

[steven c newman]

I might have a few spares..
Drill bit rehab, the after 3.JPGDrill bit rehab, the after 2.JPG

lets see...that would be a #6, a #8, and a #10?

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks, Guys. I would like to bore holes in chair seats with these. The wood will likely be soft to medium hardwoods (cherry/walnut).

I would love to learn to sharpen them. I need them in 3/8", 1/2", and 5/8". So, I'm reluctant to buy a whole set.

For chair seats these might suit your needs:

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...ley-spoon-bits

Mine see regular use. Sometimes it helps to start with a gimlet for a shallow starting hole, especially when drilling at an angle.

jtk

[Prashun Patel]

That's nice of you Steven. I think I found a couple good ones online. Yes, they are 6,8,and 10.

Jim I considered spoon bits, but I like the feeding points in the auger bits. That Irwin manual was a great read. Thanks to for the link to your other thread.

Great stuff guys!!!!

[steven c newman]

Have a spare bit of each size...all I need is a mailing address....

#6 = 3/8"
#8= 1/2"
#10= 5/8"

all are single flute Irwins

Seems I have quite a few extras....Mailing address, and I'll send them out this week..."With my compliments.."

[Eric Danstrom]

I've peeked a many anger bit sets over the years and have never seen the fine threaded pilot version. The coarser thread seems to work well but if I ever see a set of the fines I hope I can afford them.

[Jim Koepke]

I've peeked a many anger bit sets over the years and have never seen the fine threaded pilot version. The coarser thread seems to work well but if I ever see a set of the fines I hope I can afford them.

Now that you mention it, there is a set of Craftsman bits currently listed on ebay that looks like one bit is not original to the set. What looks like it is in the place of the 7/16" bit has a tighter thread pattern than the rest:

Ebay Bits.jpg

My bits all seem to work fine in ash, oak, maple and a few other hardwoods.

jtk

[ken hatch]

If you are looking for new TFWW has new angers that work very well.

ken

[Scott Winners]

I have an incomplete mixed set and agree with the previous, sharp is more important than Irwin v- Jennings pattern. I haven't had to sharpen any yet and mostly work in softwood.

[Marinus Loewensteijn]

Don't buy blindly. I always go for the augers that have two cutting bits and also both side bits (non English speaker so do not know the proper name for these parts). Then there are augers that are for softwood or for hardwood. The hardwood have a slower thread at the end so it does not pull in too fast. The hardwood you can use in softwood but not the other way round. There are some good remarks about the new Irwin augers with three cutting ends.