Auger bit recommendations

[Prashun Patel]

I am dusting off my bit brace, and looking for a good set of auger bits for drilling hardwood.

Any recommendations?

[Jim Koepke]

I am dusting off my bit brace, and looking for a good set of auger bits for drilling hardwood.

Any recommendations?

One question raises many…

Are you looking for a set or individual sizes?

Are you looking for new or are you interested in vintage?

My sets consist of Irwin and Russel Jennings with a few extra bits for each. Then there is another set of no name bits plus various others. My eyes are always looking for more at yard & estate sales. Often bits can be found for less than a dollar. Most if they are more than that are left behind for someone else to take home. It is advantageous to have a few spares to use in work where it is unknown if there are hidden nails or screws.

There are a lot of bits listed on ebay as sets and individually.

One thing to watch when buying used is some owners would cut the tang off of the bit so it could be used in an electric drill.

Also be sure to make sure they have not been improperly or over sharpened. The spurs should be able to cut a full revolution circle before the cutting edges begin to penetrate the surface.

Augers made for hardwood tend toward a single lead thread whereas bits made for softwood will often have a double spiral for the lead thread. The double spiral thread pulls the bit through faster. Hardwood goes slower.

My post from years ago may be of some help:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?131238

Here is a link to an Irwin pamphlet on selecting bits:

https://toolemera.com/pampdf/irwinhowtoPAM.pdf

Then of course there are many folks who like modern bits manufactured with three flutes. Someone else can sing their praises since none have found their way into my shop.

jtk

[David Eisenhauer]

grandpas little farm dot com may have something that works for you.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Prashun

I have used both Jennings and Irwin for many years. They are good. Just learn to sharpen, and they will do all you want. A few years back I bought a bunch of WoodOwl auger bits. These are Japanese. Rather than the usual two cutting edges, these have three. Very smooth and fast cutting.

Regards from Perth

Dere

[Philip Glover]

I have an old set (1950's) of Russell - Jennings bits.
It is a boxed set of 13 bits, type 101. The size range is 1/4" to 1". Once sharpened they are excellent. The 101 bits are generally better for hardwood. The 100 type (more common) is generally better for softwood. The difference, however, is not that great.
The difference in the types is in the point. The 100's have a double lead screw which means that they will feed twice as far per revolution.
These used sets can be found quite easily and are less expensive than the new German or Austrian offerings. Usually $100 to $225 depending on condition.

Good hunting,
Phil

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks, Guys. I would like to bore holes in chair seats with these. The wood will likely be soft to medium hardwoods (cherry/walnut).

I would love to learn to sharpen them. I need them in 3/8", 1/2", and 5/8". So, I'm reluctant to buy a whole set.

[steven c newman]

I might have a few spares..
Drill bit rehab, the after 3.JPGDrill bit rehab, the after 2.JPG

lets see...that would be a #6, a #8, and a #10?

[Prashun Patel]

That's nice of you Steven. I think I found a couple good ones online. Yes, they are 6,8,and 10.

Jim I considered spoon bits, but I like the feeding points in the auger bits. That Irwin manual was a great read. Thanks to for the link to your other thread.

Great stuff guys!!!!

[Prashun Patel]

The #8 (1/2") worked fine out of the bag. The feeding tip on the #6 (3/8") keeps stripping out as soon as the spurs engage. I tried drilling a pilot hole but have not been successful. In addition, upon reflection, the reason I'm using a brace and bit is to allow more controlled drilling at odd angles than a power drill can sometimes allow. If i have to drill a pilot hole - with a power drill - I'm not sure it helps. I'll try sharpening the tip first.

I never gave the brace much thought, until I saw how much Curtis Buchanan seems to love his - not just the results, but the experience of using it. So, I'm determined to spend a little time exploring this.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Prashun, for a pilot hole, I just use a nail or a nail set, and make a little hole where I want the bit centered. Usually just hand pressure is enough. I have never needed a full pilot hole.

ETA: I should add that I use normal American stuff. Nothing from the lands where people walk sideways or upside down.

[Derek Cohen]

Prashun, I've never experienced an issue using a pilot hole. Keep in mind that the reason for its use is to make it easier for the screw to bite into hard wood. It is the screw which pulls the bit through the wood, not the cutters. The cutters just clear the waste. The screw still needs to bite, so the pilot hole must be smaller that the screw. If it is larger, there is nothing to bite into.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

The feeding tip on the #6 (3/8") keeps stripping out as soon as the spurs engage.

Can you post an image of the lead screw and spurs?

This sounds like what can happen if the outside of the spurs have been filed. If the outside edges at the tip of the bit are smaller than the rest of the bit it will bind. If that is the case you may want to work on returning it for an exchange.

This is from a post about building a saw table:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?146777

Boring holes at an angle can present problems:

2 Edge Blow out.jpg

The image shows what happens if the hole boring is started plumb. The bit was started at an angle to the surface. The spurs were not able to complete a full circle before the cutting edges started lifting shavings.

3 Start Perpendicular to Work.jpg

To avoid this, start the hole perpendicular to the leg surface. Once the spurs have cut a full circle, back out the auger completely and reset it plumb. There will be a lot less to clean up with a chisel.

A gimlet is often a useful tool for making a pilot hole for accurate hole placement.

A pilot hole is also important when boring with larger bits, especially close to the end of a work piece, to help keep the lead screw from splitting the work.

jtk

- trying to copy this over from an old post was a bit cumbersome and the attachements didn't work as expected. Hopefully it isn't too big of a mess.

[Brian Holcombe]

Buy a set of Corradi auger files. They’re great.

[Derek Cohen]

A "bit" more on the Owl Augers ..

Ellia Bizzarri reviewed them here: http://handtoolwoodworking.com/testi...class-opening/

This would be relevant for those making chairs. Ellia experienced issues with them in this situation. His comments are worth noting in view of his being a very experienced Windsor chairmaker. I have not found the issues he has, but then I have only done a few staked stools to date.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

Welll...these are still sitting here...needing a home
Augers 3.JPG
A # 6, a #8, and a #10
Augers, 6,8,10.JPG
Just saying...