I built a Nicholson bench for my 13 year Grandson for Christmas last year. I played with it and I found out that I still prefer vises. Ron Brese's Bench top is as good a design as anyone's, but I used a shoulder vise screw for the for the wagon vise. It is a whole lot cheaper.
Pine, fir and ash work the best for tops. They absorb the blows from a mallet. Ash is the prefered wood for a baseball bat. The shock doesn't effect the hands. I am sure there are other wood that will do that.
The Nicholson bench I built was 1 1/2 inches thick and surprisingly heavy enough to not slid across the floor but if I was to do it again I would make the top thicker
For the record I prefer a shoulder vise and a tail vise. I see no advantages of a leg vise but a wagon vise is easier to construct. I do have a leg vise but 96 percent of the time I sue a shoulder vise. THe wagon vise screw is a shoulder vise screw.
My benchDSC03414.JPG DSC03415.JPG
Tom
Osvaldo,
My main bench is small. It is a plank setup on saw horses. One set of heavy planks screwed together is about 4' long, but heavy, another set is much lighter but about 5' long, finally I have a couple of 2X10s that are about 7' long, but they are not attached to each other. Generally I use either the 4' top or the 5' top, but if I need a bigger longer bench, I go get the 7' planks from the garage, although they may actually be 8' long.
I am not sure of the exact length of the long planks, they are quite hard to get to with the vehicle in the garage, it is cold and dark outside and I want to hit sack instead of getting the car out of the garage and getting the planks to measure them, so the length will remain an unknown for now.
What I do to edge plane a piece of lumber is to clamp an old western cedar 4X4 to the top of the bench, and then clamp the board vertically to be edge planed to the vertical side of 4X4. If the board to be planed is a bit longer than the 4' planks that is a help because then the board can be clamped to the 4X4 at both ends. Normally I clamp both ends of the 4X4 to the plank bench top anyway.
The 4X4 runs lengthwise down the length of the bench, clamped to it with a big C clamp, or two C clamps if I clamp both ends to the top. The 4X4 extends past the bench so I can use a second C clamp from underneath to secure the flat of the board to be edge planed. To keep things from moving while planing, I extend the 4X4 well past the end of the bench and brace the end of it against the brick wall of the house.
If the board to be edge planed is not as wide as the 4X4, I place a 2X4 under the bottom edge of the board to be planed.
This is a very low tech solution for not having a good place to work and no shop. That said, with the 4x4 braced against the house, nothing moves, a very stable way to hold the lumber for edge planing.
If the lumber I am planing is somewhat long, I can plane the one end, and then move the lumber back past the back end of the bench then plane the center of the board, etc.
This is definitely very low tech and cheap, but it works pretty well.
Like the others, I clamp a board, that is thinner than what I am planing, across the width of the planks to act as a planing stop when face planing the lumber. Since the saw horses are wider than some of the plank setups, I can clamp the 4X4 to the horses to extend past the bench and butt up against the brick wall of the house to keep things from moving while planing. Again, the house is obviously heavy enough that with the 4X4 butted against it, and at the same time clamped to the horses, and the planks making up the top clamped to the horses, nothing moves. I do make several trips between the garage and the saw horses carrying clamps, however.
Regards,
Stew
Last edited by Stew Denton; 10-21-2019 at 1:17 AM.
Thanks Ken,
My wife suggested hanging the light boxes over my benches. It was such clean no glare light I then replaced all my ceiling fixtures with similar light boxes.
Ron
Hola Osvaldo
This is my second bench in this style. It is my main bench and works very well for me. It is Hard Maple 3" thick and about the same size as your current one. It weighs about 180 kg. It has an end vise which works really well but is not necessary. I used my first bench (similar) without vises for a long time.
Bench.jpg
Dust swept under is conveniently out of the way
Edges allow for clamping all around and on the overhanging end
Split top allows more clamping
Hard wood is great for chopping, it resists bounce so cutting is faster and more accurate
Hard wood is slippery so more clamping pressure is needed, this is unfortunate
Hard varnish resists glue and stains
Bench Underside.jpg
Top is glued to the aprons and legs. Very solid and no problems with wood movement.
Last edited by Tom Bender; 10-22-2019 at 8:38 AM.
Oops I have attached pics of my vise, not what you asked for.
Guys,
thank you for your precious feedback and encouragement. This is a great place!
I am luck as I found really dry wood. I am a little bit worried about the workability of the wood... let us see then!
If any of you have any additional input I would thank you in advance.
All the best.
Osvaldo.