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Thread: restoring a powermatic 15HH

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    284
    They were completely rusted, the inside kind of just disintegrated with the Allen key.

    I have a tap and die set, and in reality I think theses socket set screws are redundant - there are 8 total top and bottom that lock the bottom base and top body onto the 4 posts. Already jacked up the threads on one so I'll either leave it out or drill an M12.

    I've pretty much ground them smooth inside, so I'll try the left handed bit, maybe I can pound something at it to get something it can bite into.

    -------

    Otherwise, trying to figure out how to get the thing totally apart so I can derust the posts properly. I'm thinking of getting a mini bottle jack like this:
    https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...1735_200641735

    I have 6.5" available if I move the table all the way to top.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    5,357
    You could also leave it on to clean the posts. Raise the bed as high as it will go, clean the exposed part below, lower the bed all the way then clean the rest. A brass wore wheel should do it.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    284
    Ordered the replacement parts I need plus found a cheaper jack. I figure worst case I end up with one post stuck to the bottom and one to the top. I can work with that from a weight perspective. I really want to get the table off because there is definitely grime and grit between the table and the posts.

    Also I want to repaint it which will be much easier in pieces.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    284
    Update: Got some wire wheel brushes and they worked wonders on the posts. The table moves much more smoothly. Unfortunately I tried my method of putting the bottle jack in there to push it apart and one post wouldn't give. So I had three pop up and one stay on. I was expecting the 4th one to pop out of the bottom but it stuck. So I dropped the jack and pounded the top back down, but on two of the posts I have a little gap. It's hard to know if that was there to start or not. As near as I can tell I'm probably off by 1/32 at most side to side, which I'm thinking will not be hard to adjust for with the table.

    Question is, do I continue to try to drill out the set screw that caused that issue or just put everything back together and level the table? Looks like it will be at least another week until I get my replacement parts so I have some time to think about it.


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  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    284
    Well I finally got it apart with 2 jacks, this is going to make it much easier to do the final derusting and paint. With some grease on the posts should go back together reasonably easy.

    Got most of the replacement parts in - they messed up my order and didnít sent the items I ordered two of.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    284
    Pics. Now I'm figuring out what paint to use. I'm thinking something I can roll on rather than spray. There are so many holes everywhere. Hoping I can clean up where necessary and then paint on top of the current yellow.

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  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    50,244
    When you get to your finishing, the biggest key to the job is surface preparation including thorough cleaning. There can be no grease or other contaminants nor can there be any oxidation that hasn't been dealt with. Prime with something compatible with your intended color product. There are a number of "machine" type paints available that are readily applied by brushing and rolling in a variety of colors.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #38
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    1,155
    I have used an auto part store several times that mixes colors to match in spray cans, it costs me about $25 a can but works very well and matches original color exactly.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    When you get to your finishing, the biggest key to the job is surface preparation including thorough cleaning. There can be no grease or other contaminants nor can there be any oxidation that hasn't been dealt with. Prime with something compatible with your intended color product. There are a number of "machine" type paints available that are readily applied by brushing and rolling in a variety of colors.
    Thanks - I'm thinking with it being apart and actually manageable to move around easily by myself I should be able to get it done properly.

    Do you know off-hand if its possible to paint over the existing paint? My thought was to wire brush/sand/etc all the rusting areas, give it a thorough cleaning and then get a coat of primer on it as fast as possible once dried.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    50,244
    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Crawford View Post
    Thanks - I'm thinking with it being apart and actually manageable to move around easily by myself I should be able to get it done properly.

    Do you know off-hand if its possible to paint over the existing paint? My thought was to wire brush/sand/etc all the rusting areas, give it a thorough cleaning and then get a coat of primer on it as fast as possible once dried.
    You do not need to remove the existing paint, but you'll want to prepare the surface well...light abrasion to give "tooth" and remove anything not "permanent" and then proper cleaning. Primer from there will finish the preparation before you put on your color. The better you prep, the better the results. And with machinery, the cleaning thing is critical.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    3,234
    Where the old paint is firmly attached it can be left to act as primer. This will cause an aligator effect as the old paint film is thicker then the bare metal. You have to feather the edges down with a wire brush or fill the missing areas with body filler or high build primer if you want a gloss smooth final appearance. If you want a as cast factory paint job don't bother with excess time on fillers etc.
    Bil lD

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    5,357
    For holes: threaded ones just screw in a bolt of the same thread pitch/diameter and paint it. Open holes without threads Iíve used strips of rosin paper or construction paper rolled up.

    Iím getting ready to brush on some Sherwin Williams DTM to my planer which is totally stripped down to bare metal.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    284
    Questions

    - for cleaning before paint is soap and water sufficient or do I need some kind of toxic degreaser?

    - for drying quickly and well, should I use compressed air, blowdryer, something else? A torch seems like overkill and that I could screw something up.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    5,357
    I use Super Clean. Itís nasty stuff but does the job. Will eat away paint if left on too long. After wiping it off with a towel, any residue left behind will dry by itself. Itís a must have for my restorations.

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    MT
    Posts
    290
    Just read this through. I bought one of these new so if you can get it done for around $1,500 it seems like a good deal. Also as others have noted the experience is worth something as well. Looks like it isn't too late to go with the Deere green...

    Thanks for sharing.
    Regards,

    Kris

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