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Thread: restoring a powermatic 15HH

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
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    3,238
    I like to use aluminum foil for paint masking. Holds nicely to curves and self holds when crumpled around a feature.
    Bil lD

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    284
    I'm super pumped I got the rollers off of the table. Took a lot of googling to figure out how to get those eccentric adjusters out, the end method was a lot of banging around. Unfortunately in the process I knocked the center out of one of the bearings and the outer ring is stuck in the roller. It might make me have to order another roller if I can't get it out.

    IMG_4117.jpg

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    5,361
    Pictures of the bearing problem?

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    284
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Pictures of the bearing problem?
    You can see I've marred it up trying to get it out, that will clean up fine. There's no lip on the bottom to pound against.

    IMG_4120.jpg

    IMG_4121.jpg

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Lithia, FL
    Posts
    3
    You might be able to use a hacksaw blade and cut through it at an angle in a few places as far as possible without getting into the roller then take a cold chisel and break it apart. Just an idea of how I've accomplished the task before, might or might not work depending on how far you can cut into the race before getting in to the roller.

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    5,361
    I got these loaner tools at Autozone to do a very similar thing to my 399.

  7. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Crawford View Post
    You can see I've marred it up trying to get it out, that will clean up fine. There's no lip on the bottom to pound against.

    IMG_4120.jpg

    IMG_4121.jpg
    Slide hammer kit with a bearing puller attachment. You should be able to pick one up at harbor freight that will suffice (it seems like it would be hard for them to screw something like that up.) It's a really useful tool whenever you're dealing with bearing replacements.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    5,361
    Doug, i think just the outer race is stuck INSIDE the roller. So a standard puller would do no good. See my previous post.

  9. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Doug, i think just the outer race is stuck INSIDE the roller. So a standard puller would do no good. See my previous post.
    Slide hammers can work on the outside _or_ the inside of the bearing. You can also get pullers that do the same, that can be used with a slide hammer. Of course, you usually can't reuse the bearing afterwards, but that's why you're removing it.

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    5,361
    Gotcha Doug, like this kit:
    https://www.harborfreight.com/Slide-...-Pc-62601.html

    Similar to what I used.

  11. #56
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Gotcha Doug, like this kit:
    https://www.harborfreight.com/Slide-...-Pc-62601.html

    Similar to what I used.
    More like this:

    https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...QaAkHHEALw_wcB

    A lot more flexible, and only slightly more expensive. I have something similar, and with some ingenuity, it has served me well for many years.

    Cheaper than taking it out to a shop if you ever plan on doing more than one or if you value your time.

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    284
    I've tried cutting through it with a dremel but it seems rusted in place. Since a new roller is $20 I'm probably going to take an angle grinder to it and see in the end if it will still work. It just needs to hold the bearing and provide minimal friction for a board. Doesn't seem like the extreme edge will matter much.

  13. #58
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    5,361
    Thatís a good point Thomas. Honestly, most, myself included, will recommend you lower those rollers below the bed anyway. They cause more trouble than they are worth unless you are rough planing thousands of board feet. Keep the beds waxed and you donít need them.

    That being said, there is some satisfaction in completing the job. You can get the loaner tools mentioned above for free at an auto parts store. Might as well try.

  14. #59
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    284
    I went ahead and took the angle grinder to it, I think it will still work fine after I grind down all the sharp edges I made.

    IMG_4138.jpg

    IMG_4139.jpg

  15. #60
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    284
    PRIMED AND PAINTED - so close to getting this thing back together. Sherwin Williams direct to metal oil enamel. Only 450 VOC. Painted outside so I didn't make the shop smell.

    IMG_4144.jpg

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