That color went on nicely!!!
That color went on nicely!!!
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Looking good! I’ve been busy with family stuff but hopefully I’ll be painting soon too. I’m using the Acrylic version of the DTM, which only has 250g/L.
Assembling a fresh restoration is one of the best parts!
Getting it back together:
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With work and holiday schedule it sat untouched until this weekend, getting close. New bearings everywhere since I had it apart. New seals for the gearbox. Just need to figure out a way to get a funnel or something to fill the gearbox up with oil, its in a hard to get to spot.
Not going to paint the gearbox because its ultimately covered up, but once this is back together I'll pick a day to paint the rest of it.
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Looking good. You should be able to use some clear tubing to get to gearbox with the lube. Not sure what weight of fluid is called for but I know gear lube (80-90 weight) typically comes in a squeezable bottle to which you can attach tubing.
I guess that isn't John Deere Green. Maybe New Holland Blue? Nah, too light.
Regards,
Kris
I used a straw when I owned a Four post planer.
I used squeeze bottles from Harbor Freight to fill the gear box.
Good Luck,
Got the gearbox filled with a flexible funnel. 80W Gear Oil.
I can confirm that its possible to install the anti-kickback pawls backwards and everything fits and it runs with no issue - but you'd never be able to plane a piece of wood.
2.5 hour job to pull it apart and switch them around and I have a smooth-running machine.
Its been to cool/rainy to finish the painting, will get the rest turned blue in the spring.
Wasn't too bad get the rollers and everything level and aligned with a feeler gauge. Need to align the infeed/outfeed tables and then run some stuff through it to make sure its all square enough.
Proof of shavings:
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Last edited by Thomas Crawford; 01-27-2020 at 1:32 PM.
More notes:
Good to have a torque wrench for the screws on the cutterhead, it was a little more than hand-tight with a screwdriver.
I used Teflon grease everywhere (learned about it from building mountain bikes).
Put a new 10 gauge cord from the machine to the wall and a dedicated 30 amp plug.
I didn't replace the belts - any advantage to a link belt or something here?
The Byrd shelix head is QUIET - so nice compared to the universal motor in my old Makita 2030.
Good to see that machine lacking chips again! You worked hard to get to this point, congrats!
I wouldn’t bother with link belts.
Beautiful
Agree with Matt, ordinary belts are best.
If there is any brass or bronze in the gearbox be very careful what lube you use. GL 4 or less is fine. GL5 will eat yellow metal and destroy it in a few years. It is the new improved high pressure additives that do this. I am not sure if it even has to be run for the chemical attack to continue.
Bill D