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Thread: PVA Adhesive

  1. #1

    PVA Adhesive

    Looking for a good recommendation for a clear drying PVA glue. Have a project using Formica Color Core laminate which requires a clear drying PVA or UF glue. I will place the panels in a vacuum press. I see a lot of choices but would like to hear from someone who has used one they really like. Since the Color Core has no dark lines it needs to be clear and I have read a few posts where some have used different brands that did not dry clear as they should. Will be able to quickly get them clamped up so don't really need any prolonged work time or anything else special, just a clear drying PVA sold by the gallon.

  2. #2
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    Tools for Working wood just came out with a white PVA that dries clear. I've been using it for a couple weeks now and it will be replacing the titebond I've used for years.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Hendershott View Post
    Looking for a good recommendation for a clear drying PVA glue. Have a project using Formica Color Core laminate which requires a clear drying PVA or UF glue. I will place the panels in a vacuum press. I see a lot of choices but would like to hear from someone who has used one they really like. Since the Color Core has no dark lines it needs to be clear and I have read a few posts where some have used different brands that did not dry clear as they should. Will be able to quickly get them clamped up so don't really need any prolonged work time or anything else special, just a clear drying PVA sold by the gallon.
    So what the heck is PVA? I suppose I will need to use Google to find out.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_acetate

    OK - got it!

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Hendershott View Post
    Looking for a good recommendation for a clear drying PVA glue. Have a project using Formica Color Core laminate which requires a clear drying PVA or UF glue. I will place the panels in a vacuum press. I see a lot of choices but would like to hear from someone who has used one they really like. Since the Color Core has no dark lines it needs to be clear and I have read a few posts where some have used different brands that did not dry clear as they should. Will be able to quickly get them clamped up so don't really need any prolonged work time or anything else special, just a clear drying PVA sold by the gallon.
    For that application I wouldn't recommend a PVA glue. It tends to dry around the edges and stays wet in the middle for a long time. A UF glue would work alright.

    I don't see the point in trying to find a clear adhesive. The dark line will be the laminate core. The glue line will be nothing compared to that.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph Boumenot View Post
    Tools for Working wood just came out with a white PVA that dries clear. I've been using it for a couple weeks now and it will be replacing the titebond I've used for years.
    Thanks Ralph. Is it the
    BT&C 4/4 Wood Glue?


  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Dyas View Post
    For that application I wouldn't recommend a PVA glue. It tends to dry around the edges and stays wet in the middle for a long time. A UF glue would work alright.

    I don't see the point in trying to find a clear adhesive. The dark line will be the laminate core. The glue line will be nothing compared to that.
    OK - let me look that up.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urea-formaldehyde

    Google is my friend. Sorry for the post, but some of us need some schooling on all these acronyms.
    David

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by David Buchhauser View Post
    some of us need some schooling on all these acronyms
    Sounds like youve finally got a a little clarity on your issues. ;-) Reading is good. Research is good. Expecting others to do the hand holding doesnt work out so well and the vast majority dont learn much when they are hand held and wind up asking the same questions over an over.

    I cant imagine your dilemma when going to the DMV, or if youve got a hankering for some fried chicken and someone floats KFC, or when its tax time and you have to deal with the IRS, or your CPA. Stub your toe and you need to go to see your GP or worse into the ER. Hopefully you dont have to be transported to the ER by and EMT.
    Sometimes I just want to look at pretty pictures,... Thats when I go to the Turners Forum

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Dyas View Post
    For that application I wouldn't recommend a PVA glue. It tends to dry around the edges and stays wet in the middle for a long time. A UF glue would work alright.

    I don't see the point in trying to find a clear adhesive. The dark line will be the laminate core. The glue line will be nothing compared to that.
    I used PVA for that on my router table. A week later when I cut out the center for the lift, the glue was still not even close to dry.

    He's using color core, which doesn't have the dark line, just solid color.

  9. #9
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    yes it is I keep forgetting Joel as two names for the business

  10. #10
    I try and us what the manufacturer recommends first. I will try both on a scrap and see what works best initially.

  11. #11
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    Doesn't all "white glue" unmodified PVA (e.g., Elmer's Glue All) dry clear?

    We used to laminate 4x8 sheets of ABS to plywood using a generic PVA. There was never a problem with wet glue in the center of the panels.
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

  12. #12
    Yes, Elmers Glue All will dry clear.

  13. #13
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    I don't know what you mean by "unmodified" PVA.

  14. #14
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    Hmmmm, I wonder if a clear spray-on contact or psa would work for this application? Are those the only glues Formica recommends? I normally spray all my laminate work, as normal liquid glues would be too cumbersome and slow. I use a "web" type glues though, (Stay-Put and/or 3M Holdfast 70), which would likely show through in your application. They do have non-web type contact that may work..... you'd have to do some testing first though. Can't help you on a clear PVA unfortunately.

    good luck,
    JeffD

  15. #15
    UF works real well for that. Sticking the laminate on was a problem from the beginning ,the stuff fell off the early Art
    Deco elevator doors. The contact cement mfgs say its good for 5 or 10 years. That's in use. Not waiting in the can.
    Last edited by Mel Fulks; 10-15-2019 at 11:12 PM.

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