Which glue to use?

[Joe McMahon]

Thanks to folks on this board, I am now ready to turn a rolling pin with a Celtic Knot. This requires cutting the blank at 60 degrees, inserting contrasting wood and then gluing the pieces together on the angle, which essentially is gluing end grain. Since it is a kitchen item and will see moisture, which glue would be best, Titebond III or the original Gorilla Glue, or something else?

[Barry McFadden]

I always trust Gorilla glue for kitchen stuff like cutting boards.... never had a joint fail yet...

[tom lucas]

I'm a TBIII fan. It's never failed me. I've made several cutting boards currently in-use by family without any issues. Ours cutting board is about 12 years hold now. In very light woods you can sometimes see the glue joint because it dries a little on the brown/gray side. I've only used gorilla glue a few times and didn't care for it. Maybe it's how I used it, but it expanded a bit on the few times I used. So, I lost trust in it.

2013-03-11_20-50-04_299.jpgMD cutting board.jpg

[Edward Dyas]

Thanks to folks on this board, I am now ready to turn a rolling pin with a Celtic Knot. This requires cutting the blank at 60 degrees, inserting contrasting wood and then gluing the pieces together on the angle, which essentially is gluing end grain. Since it is a kitchen item and will see moisture, which glue would be best, Titebond III or the original Gorilla Glue, or something else?

If it were me I would use titebond III or equivalent. I've had joints come apart with polyurethane adhesives before.

[John K Jordan]

If it were me I would use titebond III or equivalent. I've had joints come apart with polyurethane adhesives before.

Same here, both on the recommendation and past experience.

JKJ

[Dave Mount]

Epoxy is my choice for such things. Unaffected by water and gap filling. When gluing end grain, good idea to liberally soak the mating surfaces (true for any glue, not just epoxy) before joining to make sure the adhesive doesn't soak up the end grain and starve the joint.

Best,

Dave

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I've done those Celtic Knots. I use Titebond I. I assume you will apply finish. Never had failures with I. If you are using the metal/o-ring type stoppers, for gluing the stopper to the wood, I use epoxy. Coat the entire bottom of the stopper to seal that grain and joint. If you don't, water will seep in and mold/fungus other undesirables will grow in that joint.

[John Beaver]

According to Franklin, Titebond II is the best glue for end grain joints. Titebond III is the most water resistance. With the 45 degree cuts for a Celtic Knot I would go with TBII unless you need the water resistance.

Also.. Make sure the grain of your inserts is running as close to possible as the grain in the main body.