Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 56

Thread: Table Saw Questions

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
    Posts
    1,374
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Kees View Post
    I would completely agree with the consensus except for one minor point. I have a cast iron router wing on the left side of my jobsite saw,and much prefer this location. This may or may not work with the direction of tilt and handles for saw in the way. If it does it works very well.
    I'd like to have my router table on the left side, but that's where the motor bulge is.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Rochester, Minn
    Posts
    106
    I would look at used. Scanning the local Craigslist (southern Minn) I found 2 PM 66 and a Delta unisaw, from 850 to $1200. You are in the same general part of the country so I would expect the similar. I have a 1947 unisaw myself with a 1HP motor, and I am almost never wanting, so I personally don't get quite as excited by HP. A solid, heavy, immobile cabinet beats power: you end up cutting the wood instead of fighting it. (FYI, I mostly use cherry, walnut or maple, building furniture for wife and kids.)

    I'll agree with others that a track saw is the best way to deal with the first stage of plywood breakdown. I don't have to move my saw and have a very nice outfeed, and I still find pushing a 4x8 sheet across the unisaw to be far too clumsy.
    I made a cutting table for the track saw, 2 7' side rails and 5 3' connectors, 2x4s set on edge will all screws 1" below the surface, and a pair of what I call "church table" folding legs from the big box store. A simple open frame, without a top. It's light, takes very little space stored (hang on the wall) and can be set up in 1-2 minutes. I set the track saw be 1/8" too deep, and still I'll be worn out long before the table is.
    Last edited by Terry Therneau; 10-08-2019 at 10:35 PM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Lebanon, TN
    Posts
    394
    I agree with the other on breaking down a 3/4" sheet of 4'x8', much easier to do with a track saw.

    I bought my first table saw back in 2014. It was a 32" SawStop PCS 1.75HP saw. I had to put it away when I was done for the day, so my wife could park her car. The SawStop mobile base made this super easy. I made a fold down outfield table to allow the saw to be pushed up tight against the wall.

    Here you can see all my tools pushed up against the wall (SawStop in the center of the picture).




    Last year I swapped out the motor for a 3HP 220v. Very easy to do, took me about 30 minutes.

    I also swapped out the fence for an Incra LS Positioner and added a router table to the right side of the saw.



    Here is the Saw in router mode. You unbolt the Incra LS Positioner and rotate it 180 degrees, takes about 30 seconds. It has positive stops to align it for both saw and router mode.



    I've also just made and extension wing for the left side of the blade, for work support and saw related tool storage.






    While some of this is impractical for a saw that needs to be mobile, don't sell yourself short on a tool that you'll probably have for the next 10-15 years and like me, your location may change where you have a little more room to do other things with your saw.
    Last edited by ChrisA Edwards; 10-09-2019 at 2:59 PM.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    East Tennessee gazing at the Great Smoky Mountains
    Posts
    13
    Thanks to all for the additional info.


    Nice toys, Chris. Can I be an heir?

    Terry, I missed-out on a couple Unisaws for the right price on CL. In my ignorance, I was unsure when Delta quality went downhill and let them sit on CL for too long. When I decided to message one of the owners, poof, it was gone; as was the other. Most of the saws within 200 miles of Knoxville are contractor saws, either Craftsman or fold-ups. The cabinet saws seem kind of pricey in my area and after upgrades, I would probably be over $2K... But, there is always that great find, right?

    I have a little time to wait for the great find, but if I am forced to go new, I am thinking about the Griz G1023RLWX: https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...-Saw/G1023RLWX. What does the community think about the merits and downfalls of this saw, if I may ask?

    Thanks,
    J

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    49,988
    The Grizzly 1023 series has been around for a long time and it's a sturdy saw.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    1,132
    One of my friends,an ex-employee bought one about a year ago.I was really impressed by it,actually I think they are every bit as good as a Unisaw.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    1,752
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    The Grizzly 1023 series has been around for a long time and it's a sturdy saw.
    Had this saw for years and was very pleased with it. Had I not purchased a slider, I would still have it. (the only other option for me would be a saw stop)

  8. #23
    It's not easier to break down sheet goods with a track saw. It's easier with the 52" fence or slider....

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    49,988
    Quote Originally Posted by jack duren View Post
    It's not easier to break down sheet goods with a track saw. It's easier with the 52" fence or slider....
    I agree with the slider, but for the cabinet saw/52" fence, unless there's a healthy infeed/outfeed solution available, it's not easy at all for one person to cut down full sheets. The track saw lets someone do the deed on the floor if they want to which cuts down on the lifting/balancing act that would be required to do it on the cabinet saw unless the substantial support system was in place. In a non-commercial shop, the space to do that is less likely to be available. I have a slider and there are still times when I choose to use my track saw for breaking heavier sheets down because I sometimes cannot physically manage getting them up on the outrigger due to weight and space.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #25
    There is nothing to it with the correct setup. bottom line.

    If your not sure call a professional..

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    49,988
    Quote Originally Posted by jack duren View Post
    There is nothing to it with the correct setup. bottom line.

    If your not sure call a professional..
    The "correct setup" is exactly what I was referring to. Most folks here are hobbyists are not in situations where they can support that kind of "setup" with the space they have available.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
    Posts
    1,374
    Quote Originally Posted by jack duren View Post
    There is nothing to it with the correct setup. bottom line.

    If your not sure call a professional..
    What you call the correct setup is not the correct setup for me & most other hobby woodworkers. I had a 52" fence c/w huge out feed & in feed tables, but that still didn't work well because of the space it took & the hassle of getting 100 lbs sheet goods up onto the table saw. So I ditched all that & now use a circular saw & straight edge to break things down into more manageable sizes. That works much better for me.

    So, bottom line is that each individual needs to figure out what works best in they're own space. To dismiss other methods because they're not 'professional' is arrogant and kind of insulting.

  13. #28
    I can't answer the question for each ones ability and setup. But I answered it correctly. It is easier to cut on 52" fence than with a track saw..

    If you want to break down ability and setup do so...

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Camas, Wa
    Posts
    3,617
    1) Cabinet or Hybrid? If Hybrid, I don't want to have to jack-around with trunnions all the time.
    Hybrid is fine if it has cabinet mounted trunnions. I don't know what models those are. A cabinet saw is always a good choice.


    2) 52" rails and wing?
    If you have the space go for it. I find 26" too short. I took a 26" fence and shifted it over and now have a 34" fence. It is fine paired with the Jessem Mast-R-Slide I have. I had a 52 in the past and it was great but it gathered a lot of junk.


    3) If the answer to #2 is yes, some saws come with long rails, but no wing insert - what to do?
    Build your own. It is easy to do.

    4) Is a router wing worth having, and is there a generic that fits most saws, or are they saw-specific?
    I hate a router table in the wing. I prefer separates.

    5) I have 220V, so should I skip the 2HP models and go right to 3HP? (Probably a stupid question...)
    Go straight 3-5hp.

    6) Finally, what are your favorite models? New and used are both acceptable. So much has changed and my head is whirling like the blade on the falling Craftsman... Saw Stop will not be an option; I will rely on my discipline to keep all Ten.
    I have a Grizzly G1023RL and love it. I had an old Unisaw that I restored before that. I am much happier with the Grizzly.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Lebanon, TN
    Posts
    394
    Quote Originally Posted by jack duren View Post
    I can't answer the question for each ones ability and setup. But I answered it correctly. It is easier to cut on 52" fence than with a track saw..
    Don't know what your magic is, but cross cutting a 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4" plywood or MDF, I'm going to my sheet of 4'x8'x 2" pink insulation, on the floor, and then using my track saw. Wrestling that heavy sheet while trying not to bind up the saw blade, on my cabinet saw, no, I'll go to my ground method, hardest part is standing up after kneeling making the cut(s).
    Last edited by ChrisA Edwards; 10-11-2019 at 11:41 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •