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Thread: Sill to concrete barrier

  1. #1
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    Sill to concrete barrier

    Is just the simple rolls of foam sill vapor barrier ok for an unheated shed?
    Also, would it help control sound to separate the staggered studs on separate sill? That is, 2 2x4s instead of one 2x6, with perhaps a sheet of drywall or sheet rock between them?
    Last edited by Bill Jobe; 10-04-2019 at 12:18 PM.

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    2 rows of studs is good, but DO NOT place a sheet of drywall between them. It will increase the sound transmission of the wall greatly. Google 'third leaf effect' to get all the gory details. I don't think 2 bottom separate plates as opposed to 1 will gain you much, if anything, unless those plates were secured to separate isolated slabs

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    What about the roll of foam for vapor barrier between slab and shed?
    Are the vinyl sill vapor barriers better?

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    Thanks , Frank.

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    All I see them use around here is the foam sill gasket. It's better because it seal out the moisture and it seals drafts. It will also help block noise that tries to sneak through the crack. It also would not hurt to run a bead of acoustical sealant where the plate meets the slab.

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    I use the EDPM seals from Conservation Technologies. Probably overkill for a shed, but since they have little "wings" they are likely more effective at stopping noise transmission through the gap. But given the gap is (or should be) covered by sheathing on the outside, I doubt the gap is a major source of sound transmission. I think the cheapie foam seal do an adequate job of blocking moisture transmission from concrete to wood as long as they are placed properly and not damaged during installation, which is pretty easy to do.

  7. #7
    Before they came out with the rolls of foam, they sold rolls of fiberglass insulation, so if you prefer fiberglass to the foam, just cut some R11 into strips the width of your sill.

  8. #8
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    I saw a new home builder advertisement where they said that they pressurize the new house and then apply a sealant between the sill plate and the concrete, etc. I thought that it was a pretty interesting idea and thought that I'd pass it on. Probably doesn't apply to the OP's plan to have an unheated shed, but I thought that others might find it interesting.

  9. #9
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    When did they start doing that, is it a east coast thing?
    Bill D

  10. #10
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    we used concrete expansion joint material for this.

  11. #11
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    Local code adoption varies, but the 2015 IRC (International Residential Code) instituted a requirement for blower door testing during new home construction. By pressurizing (or de-pressurizing, it can be done either way) a home, air leaks can be identified and corrected. IIRC, the IRC only requires testing of the completed structure and sets some limit on maximum leakage, expressed in air changes per hour of the entire building. Any energy efficient home builder worth their salt will test several times during the construction process however, as it is much easier to locate and fix many leaks before the insulation and sheetrock are installed.

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    If the noise abatement is critical, double walled, both fully insulated with fiberglass, and Homosote under the drywall facing your finished space would be hard to beat. Not gonna be cheap.
    You only need 2 tools in life. If it's supposed to move and doesn't... use WD40. If it moves and shouldn't... use duct tape.

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    Quote Originally Posted by James Tibbetts View Post
    If the noise abatement is critical, double walled, both fully insulated with fiberglass, and Homosote under the drywall facing your finished space would be hard to beat. Not gonna be cheap.
    If the wall is to be insulated, then the layer of Homosote will do little to reduce sound transmission. Better to add a second layer of drywall instead.

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    It will eventually be insulated....

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    I had enough concrete blocks (cinder blocks?) to build the shed but decided to go with wood on a slab.
    If it isn't quiet enough I can still build a block wall around most of it. It's located where it would not create an eyesore, a bit behind the shop.

    I found a schedule 40 11° elbow but cannot find one to fit solid PVC drain/sewer pipe. I had planned to go straight through the wall, attach the 11° coupling and continue on another 6' to the soundproof shed.
    Clearview wants 6' of straight duct just prior to the intake on the cyclone that is 11°.
    Any ideas?

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