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Thread: Cermark - vector cutting"

  1. #1
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    Cermark - vector cutting"

    Has anyone tried using a vector cutting path on a cermark coated sheet of stainless steel?

    Bit of background. I've got an industrial customer who is wanting a good number of stainless steel sheets marked with text and outlines of their parts.
    Will be quarter inch thick plate, so there is no issue with me warping the sheet, more of it warping me.
    They can cut into roughly 2x4 ft sections which would be about 75 pounds each rather than 330 pounds that a full 4x8 sheet weighs.

    My bed is 36x54, and I can move that size sheet into it, (nothing more I think) but some of their outlines are 14" diameter circles.
    (squares I can break and engrave in pieces) but the circles will take a ton of time to engrave.

    I'd love to use my fiber, but I can't cover any of the areas except for the text in one pass. So cermark is only option.

    Any comments?
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  2. #2
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    It will work but the line won't be very wide.
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  3. #3
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    Oh, I'd do a multiple contour. And in playing with estimating, I can do 6 passes around each part in seconds rather than an hour.
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  4. #4
    Using the contour tool was my suggestion as well. Can the bed support 75 lbs.?
    Mike Null

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  5. #5
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    Thanks Mike,
    Sure. It's built well enough I think. I know I've had parts half that heavy and it would move vertically.
    I'd probably pull out the grid and only use the knife blades. I can slide on them easier. Maybe thin sheet of ply over them.
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  6. #6
    I do what you're talking about all the time, but beware-- you CAN warp 1/4" stainless.
    When I engrave the eight 3"high logo characters on these op panels-
    STlarge.jpg
    -the order is S-T-K-R-Y-A-box-C, in order to keep the heat buildup spread out. If I don't, I can create over an inch of side-to-side warp.

    On these panels, ALL outlines, and the long line between the logo letters, are all vectored. I create the vectors using the contour tool, spacing depends on your laser's beam width, the wider you can get away with the faster you'll get done, obviously. I typically set the spacing at .0035" to start, works with all my machines. For simple jobs, like circles, I'll create the actual size border needed, then ungroup it all, then start with the outer border. For these panels with intersections, these will contour both sides inward until they reach the middle. I enter the .0035" size then click the "inside" contour button, then increase the number of lines until the last line reaches the inner border, or meet in the middle. If you need dead-to-rights accuracy or to adjust the middle, just change the spacing in .0002" increments up or down, and if needed add or subtract a line. When it's to your liking, press CTRL+K (un-combine), this separates each line so you can make them all one color. Delete the extra inner border if there is one-- Then I group the batch and change then all to red, then group the whole bunch...

    On this panel, I have 3 horizontal borders connect with the perimeter border,
    this is a screenshot of the one of those intersections' vector lines:
    fll.jpg
    yup, it ends up being a crapload of lines!
    Note the middle of the curved areas the very center looks like solid lines-- that's because they are, I hand draw those in because the "V" connections leave enough space within themselves to leave un-engraved spots, I just draw in my own filler lines. When working to the middle sometimes other extra fill lines are needed. Doing simple squares or boxes you won't have this issue, but intersections can leave gaps...
    Last edited by Kev Williams; 10-02-2019 at 3:11 PM.
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  7. #7
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    I kind of thought you did that Kev. I don't know if they are going to pursue or not. These are tool holding plates to be bolted to a wall and will have several horizontal parts to hold their various tool. Kaizen I guess. I played with an old cup base and it looks decent, I need lines closer. But I get your method.
    Way faster than an engrave on entire item.
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  8. #8
    Yep, all the time. I have one part I use arial font, about 0.075" tall maybe and you'd never know there is no 'fill'. The time is improved over raster and the vector "cooks" the cermark just fine. Done thousands this way, never an issue (I know of).
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  9. #9
    I have a setup to raster engrave those outlines, involves splitting everything up into separate vertical and horizontal segments. You can do the same with circles, and if your machine doesn't engraved white space like most Chinese machines, just cutting a circle in half vertically engraves pretty quick.
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  10. #10
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    Not tried with CerMark, but on large projects, in Corel, I Convert the text/object to Postscript & change to hash lines. Easy to adjust the line spacing.
    Tim
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  11. #11
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    I had another project similar to the above, but on a 20" diameter quarter inch SS plate with some cutouts for connections. Had to outline the cutouts and text with boxes. Easy, made 20 contour passes .003" or right at the .08mm scan width I do for engraving with cermark. Used 6000 on test side and it didn't stick well, so I cleaned again with DNA (several times actually) and applied LMM14 that I had. Adhered great and was good and black.
    Hopefully I'll have 10 more next week or two to do.
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    Rockwell 46-450 lathe, and 2 Walker Turner RA1100 radial saws
    Jet JWS18, bandsaw Carbide Create CNC, RIA 22TCM 1911s and others

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