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Thread: Shop layout and Dust collectioin

  1. #16
    flex hose is equivelent in loss to 3 or more times longer straight pipe. If you want maximum airflow you have to limit it's length. But I find that my HF 2 hp DC can support a pretty long flex hose going to my planner and still collect chips well. The run to my table saw is straight metal pipe until the end where there is about a foot of 4 inch flex - and another piece similar size inside the saw.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Jacksonville, Fl
    Posts
    39
    Ok so I made alittle headway on the shop this weekend. I was able to get pretty much all of the pipe and fitting to run the system for free so I decided to mount the dust collector on the wall. This will also free up some floor space. So I started with the canister filter and bag housing (not sure exactly what this is called). To save room I was able to mount this in the corner over where I currently have the air compressor and will still have room to leave the compressor there is I want. Purchased the canister filter from Wynn Environmental.
    canister filter 1.jpg
    I am going to put a cyclone seperator on my system and had decided to use a blue 55g barrel however when I went to go get the barrel he did not have any left. I was able to pick up this 60g black pickle barrel. There are a couple of things I like about this barrel over the other one. The sides are thicker and is actually has a ring that screws down to make the barrel air tight.
    cyclone seperator.jpg
    I was also able to get my used (new to me) air cleaner hung. Purchased the inner filters from Wynn Environmental.
    air cleaner.jpg

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Jacksonville, Fl
    Posts
    39
    Ok so over the last couple days a had alittle time to work on my DC system. I filter and motor have been mounted (meed to add some safety straps to the motor), the cyclone is complete (went with a 60g pickle barrel instead of the blue barrel because the cyclone fit it perfect)

    Really the only thing left is to connect everything and start running the piping.
    canister and motor.jpg

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Lancaster, Ohio
    Posts
    83
    As long as you get a good seal it will work just fine.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Jacksonville, Fl
    Posts
    39
    Ok so I made alittle headway on the shop over the last 4 or 5 days. I was able to get pretty much all of the pipe and fittings to run the system for free so I decided to mount the dust collector on the wall. This will also free up some floor space. So I started with the canister filter and bag housing (not sure exactly what this is called). To save room I was able to mount this in the corner over where I currently have the air compressor and will still have room to leave the compressor there is I want.

    I am going to put a cyclone seperator on my system and had decided to use a blue 55g barrel however when I went to go get the barrel he did not have any left. I was able to pick up this 60g black pickle barrel. There are a couple of things I like about this barrel over the other one. The sides are thicker and is actually has a ring that screws down to make the barrel air tight and did not require any modification to the Dust Deputy.
    canister and motor.jpg
    I was also able to get my used (new to me) air cleaner hung.
    air cleaner.jpg

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Jacksonville, Fl
    Posts
    39
    I was going to build a remote on/off switch for my Dust collector this weekend but ran out of time. I did however purchase all of the parts and pieces, so hopefully it will happen this week.
    I was however able to get alot of the pipe hung for the Dust collection system. (I did not glue anything, just friction fit with 2 small screws to help hold together and HVAC aluminium tape for air tightness)

    I was able to squeeze in a straight run of almost 20" going into the cyclone to help with the air turbulence going into the cyclone.

    Drop #1 will be split after the gate valve with a 4" to 2.5" wye, (with another gate valve on the 4" side) this will allow me to use it for both my drum sander and small ported hand tools at the workbench off the same drop. (Because this drop is close to the garage door I can roll the Drum sander outside if needed due to the excess amount of dust created by the drum sander.)
    Drop #2 will be hooked up to my band saw.
    Drop #3 will have a split after the gate valve with a 4" to 2.5" wye because my router table has both 4" and 2.5" dust ports.
    Drop #4 will either have a long hose attached for shop cleanup or be extended to the floor to be used as for a shop sweep.
    Drop #5 will run to the center of the garage and drop down for the table saw and miter saw station.
    Dust collection main wall 2.jpg

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Jacksonville, Fl
    Posts
    39
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Larry, there's no issue with using a larger drum, but you must have an absolute seal between the cyclone and the barrel...not even the tiniest of leaks. The attachment method used with the original bin insures that because it's based on the clamping ring pulling things together very tightly and completely air sealed. The fact that the "bin top" is molded as part of the cyclone you have is where the challenge is going to come from because it's a different size than your alternative barrel.
    Thought that I would show how the Cyclone went together. The original cyclone came with the cyclone body, 15g barrel and clamping ring. I wanted to increase my barrel size. I was going to use a 55g blue barrel with clamping ring and affix the cyclone body to the top. When I went to get the barrel they were out, which forced mt to rethink my plan. I found this 60g black pickle barrel and it was actually easier to use then the original blue barrel in my plan.

    The barrel came with a two part top (a lid and ring) kinda like the ring and lid on a mason jar. <br>
    Cyclone parts.jpg
    Here is what the barrel mouth looks like.
    barrel opened.jpg
    The lid inserted into the barrel so I cut out the center leaving about a 1.5" lip.
    barrel with inner ring.jpg
    This allowed the molded cyclone body to sit on the remaining lip of the lid (This is where I placed the gasket that came with the cyclone).
    Cyclone body being inserted into inner ring.jpg
    The ring then slips over the cyclone body and tightens down.
    Cyclone 1.jpg
    Cyclone put together.jpg
    It seems to work great, there are no leaks to my knowledge and it does not crush when the DC is turned on.
    Last edited by Larry Blighton; 11-27-2019 at 10:17 AM.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Jacksonville, Fl
    Posts
    39
    Ok so not much has changed over the last few days, I ended up just putting a clear bag under my filter for now. I decided that I wanted to put a remote switch on the Dust collection system, however when searching for one the all seemed to be either up to 1.5 HP or 3 HP and above. I have the HF Dust collector that is advertised as a 2 HP even though it is closer to 1.75 HP. Even though I has seen some review where people used some of the commercially sold 1.5 HP remote switches with success, I also saw were some had burned them out. I decided that I would just build my own.


    So now I have it hooked up to a remote switch for approx $45.

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