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Thread: Epoxy over mineral oil?

  1. #1
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    Epoxy over mineral oil?

    I made a charcuterie board for a friend. I gave it a mineral oil and beeswax finish. The new owner was wanting an epoxy finish. Is it possible to put an epoxy finish over the existing mineral oil finish? I have a penetrating epoxy at home. Any suggestions or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    The mineral oil isn't really a finish...it doesn't dry. It just soaks into the board and eventually dissipates through washing, etc. If the oil is freshly applied, adhesion will likely be a challenge, IMHO.
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  3. #3
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    That's my thoughts too. I was going to tell them to use it. Wash it. Give it some time and apply a finish later down the road.

  4. #4
    Not being a Foodie, I never heard the term "charcuterie board" before. It looks like a serving platter for antipastos, etc? Please forgive my ignorance - Is epoxy an appropriate finish in that application? Will scratches matter, etc? I dont know - just raising the thought for someone who does.

    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  5. #5
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    I really don't see why it wouldn't be an appropriate finish. There won't be any cutting or anything on it. Basically it is just a fancy serving board.

  6. #6
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    The charcuterie boards I manufacture on my CNC for a client never get cut on and he does epoxy inlays on them, too. He uses a variety of finishes on them. I don't recall him mentioning any demand for fully encasing them in epoxy.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    It won't work to put epoxy over the mineral oil/wax finish. It just won't adhere at all. It would be necessary to thoroughly strip it with a paint and varnish remover first. Still the remover won't cut it 100%, I think I would put a coat of Sealcoat on the wood first before the epoxy.

  8. #8
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    No way would I use a stripper on something like this because of its eventual use for food and it's also not necessary for mineral oil (which doesn't dry) or wax. Wax can be removed with naptha or mineral spirits...the former doesn't leave behind any residue. The mineral oil need to dissipate as I mentioned previously. Washing repeatedly in hot water can help with that, but it's not great for the wood. Time is the best method...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
    I don't know how paint stripper would affect food service especially covered with epoxy. The remover is rinsed off and then the wood sanded so the chemicals left in the wood is almost nil. Anyway the dangerous chemical, methylene chloride has recently been banned from retail removers. Methylene chloride is also used in some places to soak coffee beans in to make decaffeinated coffee.

  10. #10
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    Maybe a citrus base product, but I'm not sure it's going to be helpful with mineral oil since it's not a "finish". There's nothing to soften...no film, etc.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #11
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    Thanks guys. Those were my concerns too. I was just going to give it some time and see how the wood looks down the road. I wish they would have said they wanted epoxy from the get go.

  12. #12
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    Do you recall what finishes he uses? Maybe there is a happy medium here. I thought about trying a salad bowl finish on a test piece that had been treated with oil.

  13. #13
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    I don't see the finished boards and I know he uses multiple types of finishes...all hand applied. We did have a great conversation about Tried and True the other day. It's one of my own favorites for a long time; both the straight polymerized linseed oil version and the oil/beeswax version, depending on the project.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
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    I use mineral oil and beeswax melted and applied while warm.

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