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Thread: WoodRiver & Lie Nielsen #3 chipbreaker

  1. #1
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    WoodRiver & Lie Nielsen #3 chipbreaker

    I've read there is a history between these two and do not want to get into that.

    I am interested in finding out how close the chipbreakers are to each other: Can a WoodRiver #3 chipbreaker be replaced by a Lie Nielsen #3? Can someone who has a Lie Nielsen #3 measure the distance between the opening for the lever and the end of the chipbreaker? I checked a Hock chipbreaker and it will not fit, it is about 3mm too short between the lever opening and the end of the chipbreaker. (standard distance for Stanley planes) The WoodRiver distance is approx 3.62". Thanks.
    Last edited by Marinus Loewensteijn; 09-26-2019 at 9:02 AM. Reason: better detailed request for information

  2. #2
    I've both brands of planes. I don't see an appreciate any difference in edge retention.

    Quit worrying about it and get back to work! LOL

  3. #3
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    Hi Marinus

    WoodRiver Mk1 was a direct copy of the LN. The WR progressed to Mk2 in an attempt to beak the association, but it came in for criticism (poor design). Then Rob Cosman became involved, and Mk3 was the result. Consequently, there are likely to be differences to the LN.

    The LN chipbreaker differs from others in the position of the slot, being 1/4" higher than others (Stanley on left and Clifton on right. LN in the centre) ...



    I have tried a Veritas chipbreaker on my LN #3, and it does not allow it to be closed up.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    I've both brands of planes. I don't see an appreciate any difference in edge retention.

    Quit worrying about it and get back to work! LOL
    You must not have read the original post that Marinus made. It sounds as if you could be of help to him..

  5. #5
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    @ Derek: Thanks, it looks like Lie Nielsen might fit then and that the IBC information (that their chipbreaker fits) is correct.

    @Robert: As you can see in Derek's picture the opening for the lever is further away from the tip of the chipbreaker where it meets the blade. I am interested in the exact distance of this tip to the opening for the lever. A Stanley chipbreaker cannot be used since the lever cannot adjust the blade to extend beyond the sole.

    The WoodRiver #3 chipbreaker appears to have its bevel stamped and not machined afterwards. When I ground the bevel to remove the machining marks I noticed it was extreemly soft and I am left wondering if any hardening has been done at all. The part of the chipbreaker, that is holding the blade down at the mouth is not machined and shows indentation of the blade. Blade appears to be fine. Sole is flat, edges are square, mouth and frog are perfect so fixing up the chipbreaker, the lever movement and getting rid of the sharp edges everywhere will turn this into a fine plane. I had to order this from another country and sending it back is not an option.
    Last edited by Marinus Loewensteijn; 09-26-2019 at 6:53 PM. Reason: spelling

  6. #6
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    IBC claims to have breakers and planes that fit the Wood River/Qiansheng planes. So the Wood River Chinese knock off needs a $100 upgrade if you don't want to use the Harbor Freight quality blade and breaker, hmmmmmm.........

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Danstrom View Post
    IBC claims to have breakers and planes that fit the Wood River/Qiansheng planes. So the Wood River Chinese knock off needs a $100 upgrade if you don't want to use the Harbor Freight quality blade and breaker, hmmmmmm.........
    Yes, I know.

    But please tell who else sells a decent quality bevel down steel #3?

    I looked hard at Clifton but it has a bronze adjustment lever that is subject to high wear and occasionally breaks. Or a bronze Lie Nielsen plane that at times marks the light colored timber or the highly regarded bevel up Veritas where you'll want/need multiple blades? And I have multiple Stanley 1-3/4" blades and like the thin blades. The chipbreaker makes more difference than the thickness of the blade imho.

    Whichever way you go there is no easy solution. I just need a decent chip breaker and do not want the blade. At IBC the capiron is US 30.00, I can live with that. The trick will be how to free up the side adjustment lever that has been riveted on with paint between frog and lever. Paint dissolvers did not work so it must be some two component paint. Knocking the pin out runs the risk of cracking the frog. Drilling it out needs a new pin and where to find that.

  8. #8
    Clifton 3 and Lie Nielsen 3 (cast iron) side by side on bench. Blades and chip breakers are interchangeable. Clifton chip breaker on LN blade ok and LN chip breaker on Clifton blade ok. Only issue is the Clifton screw head is too tall for the LN.

    Clifton has a steel lever - LN has a bronze lever.

    This is an older Clifton before the current model

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Gornall View Post
    Clifton 3 and Lie Nielsen 3 (cast iron) side by side on bench. Blades and chip breakers are interchangeable. Clifton chip breaker on LN blade ok and LN chip breaker on Clifton blade ok. Only issue is the Clifton screw head is too tall for the LN.

    Clifton has a steel lever - LN has a bronze lever.

    This is an older Clifton before the current model
    The plot thickens - the Clifton I saw (green paint, made before 2014) was the model made under the previous owner and had a bronze adjustment lever. It would be great if someone compared the WoodRiver to either Clifton or Lie Nielsen and then we'll have all the information to swap blades and chipbreakers.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marinus Loewensteijn View Post
    ...But please tell who else sells a decent quality bevel down steel #3?....
    Stanley type 19 with a Hock, IBC, or Veritas breaker is always a great option. Pretty easy to come in under $100. Type 19 typically is flat and if not it doesn't take too much work to make a #3 so.
    Last edited by Eric Danstrom; 09-27-2019 at 6:42 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Danstrom View Post
    Stanley type 19 with a Hock, IBC, or Veritas breaker is always a great option. Pretty easy to come in under $100. Type 19 typically is flat and if not it doesn't take too much work to make a #3 so.
    Unfortunately in our small population of 5M people, which is rapidy growing (when we came to New Zealand it was 2.5M) , there is not much old gear around and what is around is more often than not of despicable condition and overpriced.

  12. #12
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    A little off subject, but this caught my eye:

    The LN chipbreaker differs from others in the position of the slot, being 1/4" higher than others (Stanley on left and Clifton on right. LN in the centre) ...
    A common problem people encounter with vintage Stanley #113 Circular Planes is the chip breaker was swapped with one from a #3. Like the LN, the position of the slot is higher on the chip breaker for the #113. Makes me wonder if the LN #3 chip breaker might work as a replacement for those with a #113 having the wrong chip breaker.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    A little off subject, but this caught my eye:



    A common problem people encounter with vintage Stanley #113 Circular Planes is the chip breaker was swapped with one from a #3. Like the LN, the position of the slot is higher on the chip breaker for the #113. Makes me wonder if the LN #3 chip breaker might work as a replacement for those with a #113 having the wrong chip breaker.

    jtk
    I wonder if Derek had a typo - if I take the ruler on the side and extrapolate it sideways then it looks more like it would be 1/8". I'm not going to buy another chipbreaker until I know for sure. Hopefully Warren comes back with the definitive answer.

  14. #14
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    Marinus, 1/4" was not a typo ... see the measurements in the photo. However, that is a common but not exclusive set of measurements. It can vary among chipbreakers.

    Recently I needed a chipbreaker for a PM-V11 blade on a English-made Stanley #3 (circa 1960). The original Stanley chipbreaker was toast, and the Veritas chipbreaker did not fit well. I was puzzled and tried a few other Stanley chipbreakers (which are not my preference as I find them too springy when setting up). Eventually I tried a LN chipbreaker, and this fit perfectly.

    This is a case where you can be assured that only LN chipbreakers fit LN, but that there is no such assurance for other makes.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Marinus, 1/4" was not a typo ... see the measurements in the photo. However, that is a common but not exclusive set of measurements. It can vary among chipbreakers.

    Recently I needed a chipbreaker for a PM-V11 blade on a English-made Stanley #3 (circa 1960). The original Stanley chipbreaker was toast, and the Veritas chipbreaker did not fit well. I was puzzled and tried a few other Stanley chipbreakers (which are not my preference as I find them too springy when setting up). Eventually I tried a LN chipbreaker, and this fit perfectly.

    This is a case where you can be assured that only LN chipbreakers fit LN, but that there is no such assurance for other makes.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Thanks Derek, in that case the LN does not fit either - the difference with the Stanley is approximately 0.12" (just a tad under 1/8" or 3mm).

    Regards from the sunny Bay of Plenty, New Zealand.

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