Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 20

Thread: Router Table Top - Solid Wood?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Holland, MI
    Posts
    103

    Router Table Top - Solid Wood?

    I am in the process of building a new router table. I have some old growth southern yellow pine left over from a project and was thinking about making the top out of that. I would be laminated strips about 2” wide and I would probably make the top about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2” thick. Any reason not to do this? I know standard protocol is MDF or plywood with melamine or the like on the top. But i like the idea of a heavy top. And using what I have on hand.

    Chip

  2. #2
    As long as you keep it flat, it can work. But if you ever have to re-level the top, the fitting of any lift/rings/or plate will have to be adjusted too. I suspect this is why a lot of people stick with materials that don't warp. That being said, plywood and mdf can warp too as they sag.

    Consider that the thicker the top, the shallower your max depth of cut without an extension.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    3,078
    If it were me, I would build from several layers of mdf or BB. It is likely to stay flat much better. I built mine 10+ years ago from BB with Formica and it has stayed flat.
    Last edited by Larry Frank; 09-26-2019 at 6:58 AM.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Frank View Post
    Of it were me, I would build from several layers of mdf or BB. It is likely to stay flat much better. I built mine 10+ years ago from BB with Formica and it has stayed flat.
    +1 for 2 layers of 3/4 MDF or BB with a laminate surface. I have one made from MDF that is about 10 years old that is still flat and another I made recently using MDF that was constructed specifically for my design for a top with a rack & pinion fence mechanism

  5. #5
    Solid wood even thouto you might make it perfectly flat may not stay flat. I've made them out of plywood covering both sides with formica which has worked well. The best one I've made is when I took an old table saw with a cast iron top and gutted the saw parts and converted it into a router table. With that you can have a fence you can set into place to do dado work and having the cast top you know it will stay flat.

  6. #6
    As stable as that wood my be, I agree with the others you really want to use sheet goods. Flatness is paramount.

    I've made several tops over the years and I"ll echo that I've found best is 2 layers of 3/4 MDF edged with hardwood edge/laminate on both sides. Even with this, I usually have a support brace underneath on either side of the router. But I'm making the tops longer now, like 42".

    I've found a T track along the length about 3" in front of the router plate is very handy for feather boards or guides.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,675
    I agree with the other responses...something using "manufactured materials" is inherently more stable. Also, that recess you cut for the mounting plate or lift will change dimension seasonally with solid stock across the grain. The amount will vary with species, but it can be significant, either pinching the plate or leaving a gap to collect debris.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
    Yellow pine is a kind of kinky wood, have seen floor joists move after being installed, so would look at a hardwood. Made a router top from ash years ago, and it has stayed flat, but put finish on both sides after having fit the router plate to it, and made sure every bit of the cutout was coated with finish. You would want to use wood that has acclimated to your shop first.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Holland, MI
    Posts
    103
    Thanks, guys. I will be using MDF or BB.

  10. #10
    The top of mine is a sink cutout. I got it at a home center but I haven't noticed them since. I edged it with hardwood. Formica countertops are made of high density particle board and, of course, the laminate is already attached.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    2,005
    Personally I cant imagine using anything other than a cast iron table now that Ive gone that route! But if I were going to build from scratch, a couple layers of baltic birch plywood and a formica sheet on top is probably somewhere along the lines Id start with.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,973
    My favorite is synthetic bowling alley lane material. It's solid phenolic, but machines well. You have to be able to get past the fake woodgrain though. It's usually given away for free, when you can catch them redoing a bowling alley.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
    Posts
    3,495
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    Personally I cant imagine using anything other than a cast iron table now that Ive gone that route! But if I were going to build from scratch, a couple layers of baltic birch plywood and a formica sheet on top is probably somewhere along the lines Id start with.
    I made my top out of 3 layers of 18 mm Baltic Birch ply with plastic laminate on both top & bottom. Total thickness is about 2 1/4". I did the cutout just like the cast iron top is for the Excalibur lift. It's got the same number of leveling screw that can be adjusted from underneath and is a thing of beauty.

    The Excalibur cast iron top was over $400 & I couldn't justify the expense. Then about a month after I got mine done, the local tool monger had the Excaliber tops on clearance for $99. Talk about bad timing. I was almost tempted to get one just because.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,529
    Melamine for me.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,551
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Melamine for me.
    Yup, low friction tops for router tables are a requirement for me.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •