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Thread: ZCI for MM300 Smart

  1. #1
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    ZCI for MM300 Smart

    Anyone know where I can purchase zero clearance inserts for a MM300 Smart combo machine?

    Otherwise will make one.

  2. #2
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    AFAIK, they don't exist commercially. But I could be wrong about that. You might contact Sam Blasco and see if he knows of a source. I believe he's made his own inserts for his SCM/Minimax saw setup using phenolic...I recall having a conversation with him about that. The span is wide, so "wood" isn't necessarily ideal because there's not a lot of support there to keep it flat.

    As an alternative to ZCI if you have a scoring blade, use it even for solid stock. Zero tear out top and bottom. That's what I do for critical cutting on my S315WS.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Last edited by Mark e Kessler; 09-24-2019 at 12:10 PM.

  4. #4
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    Everytime i see someone with the block of wood between the crosscut extrusion and the blade i tell myself i need to add that to my saw. Mark, how do you attach that to the extrusion? I need to look at it tonight, i forget if there is a cap on the end of the extrusion or if its open.

  5. #5
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    Can't speak for Carl, but I need to make an insert for my MM 300CU Smart because every time I trim off a narrow strip, it goes right down the blade opening just like it was sucked down...which of course, it is.

    Open it up, dig it out....annoying.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Kane View Post
    Everytime i see someone with the block of wood between the crosscut extrusion and the blade i tell myself i need to add that to my saw. Mark, how do you attach that to the extrusion? I need to look at it tonight, i forget if there is a cap on the end of the extrusion or if its open.
    I made a block to fit in the extrusion (the piece in the extrusion is only 2-3” long) which is held in place with a set screw that I drilled and tapped into the extrusion


    5A202715-DA8E-4CE9-A95D-E96992D9F4C6.jpeg42A18846-ED1F-4D51-B70C-9851C9DE6490.jpegCD8BEA31-0BF3-42EC-A5D5-5100B5F06984.jpeg

  7. #7
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    Mark ,I to noticed this block on the end. Is the set screw the black spot on the right side of the middle picture ?

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    You might contact Sam Blasco and see if he knows of a source.
    Sam made a batch from phenolic about ten years ago. If you can get him to make some again I'm in for a couple more.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Kees View Post
    Mark ,I to noticed this block on the end. Is the set screw the black spot on the right side of the middle picture ?
    Yes it is, attached is a better pic (I think}. I did end up buggering the extrusion a little bit. I thought about doing it a few different ways one was putting the screws in the upper right and left thinking it would hold a bit better then the way I ended up doing it with the screws being close together but it holds well. The set screw is basically just clamping the block, I think the screws are m6.

    3CA3A7EA-34FD-4AB4-B495-B13B29F49273.jpg

  10. #10
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    This is the ZCI for my Hammer K3, which I built around the original insert. With rebates and recessed aluminium strip. The reason for choosing aluminium was that the strip closing the gap is thin, and other materials tend to break. Aluminium does not harm carbide teeth.








    Over at the Australian forum, a member based their version for a MM SC-2 on this, using aluminium angle ...





    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #11
    Derek, that's pretty slick - I was planning to do Aluminium the BB one shown was actually a prototype to figure out all the details, in the end I found that the BB is more than adequate. There is some flex side to side but hardly any up and down where it matters the most, the "L" is what prevents that. there are actually some details in my prototype that need refined but I found it works so well I haven't bothered but I will soon as I want to make one for 45deg...

    Mark

    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    This is the ZCI for my Hammer K3, which I built around the original insert. With rebates and recessed aluminium strip. The reason for choosing aluminium was that the strip closing the gap is thin, and other materials tend to break. Aluminium does not harm carbide teeth.








    Over at the Australian forum, a member based their version for a MM SC-2 on this, using aluminium angle ...





    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  12. #12
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    Awesome info as always, thanks everyone.

    This is all part of dust collection/control upgrade. Rick, YES! all those thin cutoffs go right under the the blade and then need to be dug out. PITA.

    Then the overhead guard project is underway. More on that later. But as part of the guard project, the end of the crosscut needs extended with a shorter/stubby piece so it will slide under the overhead guard more easily. It has one on there already but for a wider guard this needs extended. So those pics are great as well. (I will either make from wood, or I likely will try printing one on the 3D printer as a first attempt.

    The ZCI, if I make one, will be aluminum. I do have a scrap of corian I could use but think aluminium is pretty straightforward. Will see if Sam has any (or wants to make more - it seems like a good CNC job and if there are others here that would buy them....)

    Some of the objectives are:

    Get overhead dust collection in place (will also consider some swing down sides that will shield either side when doing smaller cutoffs)
    This includes an end on the cutoff fence to allow it to slide under the blade guard if the guard is closer to the wood
    Get the clearance around the saw blade tighter so less dust goes down, and all those thin strips stay above the surface
    Add DC remote and a blast gate near the saw

    All this is over do. What pushed me to put this higher on the list was some walnut recently, since the dust from walnut really messes me up. And after doing a large lot of cutoffs for a project there was dust all over the shop and a 'haze' of dust in the air. Not good. The overhead collector is not adequate (lots on that in other posts).

    Stay tuned

  13. #13
    If you draw it up in a CAD program you could have a local machine shop mill one out for you in whatever material you like. I would think HDPE or Delrin would be good options. If the blade were ever to contact them it wold not damage the blade. I understand aluminum is softer than carbide; however it will dull the blade faster than a plastic. Delrin is used substantially in subsea applications and has great milling and strength properties for what it is.

  14. #14
    Suppose you can make it out of whatever, I use a 10k cad box at work have access to hi-precision milling in any material, 3d printers - one of which will print with carbon fiber and still chose wood, you know why? Because I have wood laying around,it's a fantastic material that plays nice with sawblades and I have woodworking machines that I can use to make. The best part is it cost me scrap wood and no more than an hour to make it and that was on the first go just winging it and eyeballing, the subsequent ones in qty's would probably only take 1/2hr.

    the Alum one that Derek made would be my next choice material
    Last edited by Mark e Kessler; 09-26-2019 at 11:54 AM.

  15. #15
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    Material choice is going to be affected by the fact that these table inserts on an SCM/Minimax slider (whether stand-alone or in a combo) are much, much longer and narrower than with a typical cabinet saw. (About 20" on my tool) They are also essentially unsupported along the long edge that is adjacent to the slider wagon. (left of the blade) Therefore, something that is sturdy and stiff so it doesn't deflect easily is going to be preferential. Sam made his out of phenolic material. I'm probably going to use aluminum for a dado insert for my slider when I get around to it. I'm not convinced that many wood or wood-based products will be ideal for this, especially since in addition to the blade slot there is the additional need to accommodate the riving knife...that's a very long opening with a very thin/narrow piece of material to the left of the blade. I'd almost want to use aluminum angle for this so there is stronger support at the edge.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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