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Thread: dual tablesaw setup?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    1,245
    Like Erik posted, I’ve seen pro shops with slider setup with a cabinet saw in the outfeed. Usually the cabinet saw has a feeder.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,931
    Mine are setup differently. The blades are 90 degrees to each other.
    The cross cut saw edge is right up against the back of the saw I use for ripping. This way it acts as an out feed table for the primary saw.
    When I use the secondary, or cross cut saw, the table of the primary saw supports the material.
    Both saws can be set to perform cross cuts also, or a dado stack on one.
    I wouldn't say it's an ideal setup, but my shop is 19'x9', and it works for the limited space. There is a jointer, planer, two band saws, dust collector, miter saw cart and a shaper in that same space. It's a little tight.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
    Posts
    5,564
    I will try to clarify David.

    Two cabinet saws back to back, and offset so that each one used the side table of the other as the outfeed. 10" or so between them where the DC fittings are, with no insert connecting the gap. With only 10" or so, most work just bridged the gap, and it was enough so the miter gages worked. No grooves, because there was nothing to groove.

    I did put a simple 1X2 or whatever on the rear of the Unisaw. It simply bolted to the holes in the Uni table, and had a simple 45 degree bevel to assist with thin plywood cuts made with the other saw in case they sagged a bit. There is no fence rail on the rear of my Unisaw (Unifence).

    It would have been simple to make a bridge piece, but I never seemed to need it.

    I also had a PC 690 router installed in the side table of the Uni...no plate, no lift, just a hole for the bit and three mounting holes. I kept a quarter inch bearing guided roundover in it, and used it a lot for quick roundovers. It is still there.

    The whole setup included an 8" jointer on one end, with a single 6" drop from my DC, and a simple manifold. It was a box with one 6" intake, and three 4" on the bottom to the three tools. Each had a gate.

    Whew.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Burson View Post
    Erik,
    I cant see the 2nd TS here?
    Kitticorner. You can see the fence.

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Beantown
    Posts
    2,831
    I am really surprised so many like the opposing table saw setup. To me it seems like a really inefficient way to set up, and kills much of the benefit of two saws. Every time you need to use one saw, the others fence is going to be in the way. Which means constantly walking back and forth to move fences, setups, etc out of the way.

    I've had a two saw setup in my shop for many years now and can't recommend it enough. However mine are side by side. I picked up a 7' fence rail and both fences share the same rail. I can go back and forth between saws with ease and never have to worry about the other being in the way. Different stroke for different folks, but this is just the most logical setup in my honest opinion.

    Good luck,
    jeffd

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,859
    Jeff, I honestly think it comes down to how one will be using the two saws. There is no one "correct" way as each possible configuration potentially can have interference issues between the two tools, depending on what you are actually doing with each spinning blade.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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