Darcy, that’s for parts that are going to get molded I assume?
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Ah, how cleanly does the chain mortiser typically break through?
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Better, but still needs some work. This will come in handy for fixturing, I have one operation I routinely cut that is suitable to a horizontal machine and this solves that now.
I did some hogging first and that took the slab out of flat, but a light cut brought this area back to flat.
Then I milled the top parallel again. I actually got it parallel to .001” but it’s not perfectly flat so I will bring it for surface grinding. Also the step-over, wouldn’t mind getting rid of that.
Btw, Kurt manufacturing impresses the heck out of me. These vises are easily 20 years apart in manufacturing and my indicator does not even move when I sweep over them from vise to vise.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Brian: Any chance of some photos of the parts you routinely crank out with the various M&T machines you have put in the fleet lately?
David
David,
Here are some double mortises via the Maka. I cut the haunches on the router table. It can be done in the Maka also but was easier for me to cut them this way given that they are 8’ long.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Recent job on the Wadkin, you can probably see now my logic behind adding that plate. On a job like this I’ll still need to block it up slightly but no jig, just remove the clamp and use fast clamps.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Thanks Brian. How'd you cut the tenons?
David
My pleasure! I cut them with a router table and a good number of setups, hah. Those sticks are molded profiles.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Cutting tenons with a router table drove me to hand cutting. Mortising with a router table and loose tenons were OK, but TS tenons were less fuss for me than routed tenons. The allure of the machined M&T work was for me when there were lots and lots to do, but a typical single piece of furniture is handled just fine by hand for me. I never had the pleasure of working with the level of equipment you and some of the other guys are using, but remain fascinated in the descriptions of the machines, their setups and use.
David
I find it actually pretty easy but I have a good number of tricks. I use a big surfacing bit and a miter gauge. The stock prep must very accurate and the end chops must be very square. The router table fence is setup so that it is square to x-travel and square to the table.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Brian, I had a time with my DM yesterday. It’s a rare occasion in door and window work to chop a 1/4” mortise. A while back I bought a 1/4” chisel from LV. The bushings I have were not even close and my retired machinist friend made one out of brass on his mini lathe.
Working on some small sash that require this size and I thought a good time to finish the bushing and set it up. The 1/4” that came with my machine was toast. My DM came with a inner bushing to work with the 5/8” shanks of the smaller chisels. This worked with the small bits that came with the machine but would not hold with the new LV chisel. Almost ruined the new one when it slipped! Upon close inspection the new one is slightly smaller at the shank than the originals. I tried several things including smaller washers and finally put my original chisel holder in and with wrenching tighter than you should I got it to hold.
You mentioned Axminister and I looked at their site and see they offer the small chisels with the larger shank. I could not find a bushing to fit the 5/8” plus or minus on the UK venders. This is frustrating, I may give them a shot and hope I come up with something that that works.
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