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Thread: Wadkin DM

  1. #16
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    Steinway Piano makes four standard sizes of grand pianos. S, M, L, and D. S for small, M for medium, and L for large. D is for Damn Large. Maybe the D is for Damn good Mortiser.

  2. #17
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    May 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    What is a DM ?
    Bill
    DM: « Designed Magnificiently »?

  3. #18
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    Cleaned up the table and the stop. I like the stop a lot, need to have the haunch setup built in with the swing away.

    I bought material to make up a set of stops for the table in addition to a workstop. I pretty much need both for functionality.

    Also at the beginning stages of working out the bushings, I've got sizes.....if anyone else needs bushings please let me know. I'm getting costs around $200 for a set of three (covers 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" Japanese pattern chisels).



    I bought a tumbler recently for brass work, I've been interested to see what it would do for finishing steel.

    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Eisenhauer View Post
    Got to be no way to swing the proverbial dead cat around in that shop Brian.
    For certain, gets a bit tough to swing big boards around.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  5. #20
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    Dec 2008
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    Brian, you did well. The machine looks in great condition! On the stops it looks like a sleeve around a bolt? Mine just had bolts for the stops. The casting work on these are my favorite of any machines I have.

    So, I have a friend in the UK that was a long time Wadkin employee. He is my go to for anything Wadkin. I asked him about the DM. Here is what he said.



    “The machines were made in God’s County Durham where I’m from


    So DM means Durham Mortiser also on the Durham machines the first 2 numbers indicate year of manufacture.

    The castings were made at the Wadkin foundry in Falkirk Scotland.”

  6. #21
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    Mar 2006
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    Will this be a full blown rebuild along the lines of your first mortiser?
    David

  7. #22
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    Feb 2010
    Location
    Woodstock, VA
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    That's a clean machine Brian! Looking forward to the table and stop set up you're planning to build.

    What size are the bushings needed for this machine? And what size are the Japanese chisels? I've only used Clicos in my shop, they're 5/8".

  8. #23
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    Thanks, Joe! Appreciate the encouragement and for your insight into the acronym. The castings are impressive, they are about 3/8” thick in the column!

    David, this one will remain unrestored, it really doesn’t need any work so far as I can tell, save for a couple spots that could use a touch-up on the paint. I plan to check the machine over and measure how accurately machined it is pretty soon.

    Thanks Jeff! The bushing sizes for Japanese chisels are odd, 1/4”, 3/8” and 1/2” are .168”, .2665” and .384” respectively. The chisels themselves can be had in 3/4” and 13/16”. Curtis sent a few chisels and bushings with the machine, I may tune them and run them also, but so far I can’t find a Clico sharpener.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 09-21-2019 at 9:32 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  9. #24
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    Feb 2010
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    You might try a WTB on the owwm site. I was shocked at how fast I got a response. And I'd need to go back and look but I got an offer from someone in PA to stop by and use their clico hone if I couldn't find one.
    Do you normally run Clicos?

  10. #25
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    I’ll give that a try. Typically I run Japanese chisels but I would not mind tuning up and running these chisels to try it out if for no other reason.

    I prep the Japanese chisels by chucking them into a lathe and using a diamond bit into the tail Chuck. I turn it over by hand rather than running the machine. Following that I use an abrasive paste on another diamond bit with the original diamonds removed. That is followed by polishing the outside and removing the burr.



    Ive also been filing the augers to improve clearance at the entrance.

    Im thinking dust collection and a chip blower will help keep the cutting action clean and cool. The felder has great dust collection and I found it helpful, adding a chip blower should be more helpful still and I have enough trial and error parts from the maka that I can makeup a good chip blower without much trouble.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  11. #26
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    Dec 2008
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    Brian,
    When you get time I would like to see more about filing the augers. Also looking forward to see what you do about dust collection and a blower. I have a 4” drop near mine and plan to do something for DC.

    I use a blower with a magnetic base. It’s marginal, would be nice to have the air blast triggered when the handle is lowered so as not to waste air.

    9AAD6B87-5EAB-4A0E-9294-A646CF8C4554.jpg

  12. #27
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    I too would love to hear more about filing the augers Brian. Joe, what is the make of that little blower? That's pretty slick.

    I typically place two 4" ports on either side of the mortiser as close as possible to the work. Not elegant but works better than nothing.

  13. #28
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    Jeff,
    No name on it. I think it came from Woodworkers Supply in NM many years ago. It’s handy but wish the magnet was stronger. Seems like a dust port on a moveable arm would be good. I have seen something like that somewhere?

  14. #29
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    This is the filed auger, in addition to normal sharpening work on the auger I round the inlet. This area clogs with the first chop and prevents clean flow of chips.



    Joe, Thanks for the photo, I’m along the same line of thinking in that I would like something actuated by the movement of the head. My compressor won’t put out a high volume so I’ll have to makeup something to accommodate that. Having an open valve is a drag on any air system but my small compressor especially.

    The dust port would be nice if it were positionable, not sure what I will do for that yet. Still percolating ideas. The table has a mount I can use, so that was my first thought.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  15. #30
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    Feb 2014
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    On my mortisers, I rigged up (nothing as pretty as your work, as mine involves duct tape, and a shop vac end) a pickup right behind the fence that uses a shop vac. The higher velocity air movement keeps the area clean around the mortise being cut, with little that escapes the area. No blast air is needed. With a tall fence, there would need to be some modification to the fence, but it might be worth considering.

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