I've run across that problem, as well. If/when it happens, you can sometimes work around it by adding a product called "Smoothie" (sold for auto painting work) to the finish. Ironically, I believe it contains silicone, of all things!
I've also heard you can apply shellac over the fisheye, then finish as normal, though I've never tried this.
What I like to do is apply the wax to the machine with an orbital sander with a automotive scotchbrite pad on the sander. The scotchbrite pad will adhere very well to the hook and loop. Of course it ruins the sander for other applications but I got a cheap HF sander I use for that purpose only. With the scotchbrite pad you end up polishing the metal at the same time.
In addition to the above mentioned actions, about a year ago, I ended up with some excess interlocking floor mats. I had always worried that the cardboard I uses to cover the machine surfaces when not in use might attract moisture. So, I cut the excess mats to fit the machine tops as a trial. After about 1 1/2 years in an semi-insulated shop located in coastal humid Maryland, with only a wood stove for heat & no AC, the surfaces remain pristine. I have concluded that their closed cell foam is superior to cardboard in reducing/preventing condensation from forming on the surfaces.
Historically, I have used Johnsons paste wax. The next time I clean & are-wax a surface, I am going to try the catalyzed wax (contains no silicone) I use on my autos.
Give this link a read: LINK
If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!
Beranek's Law:
It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.
Would you happen to have been thinking about that Excalibur router table from the other thread? I just got to thinking, wouldn't it be wonderful if you could take some EvapoRust and paint it on the cast iron table, let it sit for a bit and then wipe it off (disposing of the rags safely of course.) Specifically to that situation, I would be tempted to try that.
For any part that can't be immersed, EvapoRust recommends saturating paper towels with their solution and placing them on the surface and letting sit for awhile (I am paraphrasing the directions, there was a step or two more...)
I’ve been using the Johnson PW for the cast iron tables and plywood/MDF jigs for a few years with pretty good success. Also, I use Boeisheild T-9 for hand tools and hard to reach places. I’ll give a quick wipe down after a spray and I keep the rag for that in a zip lock bag.
I can't answer that, but my can is many years old.
So I bought some Evapo-Rust to try and use. I decided to try it on the Excalibur router table but with a top that is 32 x 24 it would be kinda hard to immerse. I read somewhere to soak cotton rags in the Evapo-Rust and then wrap with cellophane. I did this and it just didn't seem to work very well. Even though the rags were wrapped with cellophane some of it dried and it just didn't see to work as advertised. I how do you soak something thats bigger than any container you have, you build something. I cut down the biggest (24.5 x 34) heavy duty cardboard box that I had and lined it with plastic, not the prettiest but hopefully it will work. I took a gallon of Evapo-Rust and placed the router top in it last night and hopefully this evening when I pull it out it will look a lot better.
If you're not used to wax on your TS top, be aware of the reduced friction and possible safety risk. When boards and jigs move around quicker than you're used to, just be aware, that's all.
No I didn't get hurt, but I'm posting this just because of a close call.